Kenmore / Sears Wall Oven Igniter

The hardest part was getting the gas valve to turn. An old all metal one from the 1950s located in a narrow space that usually holds a drawer. Finally got it to turn using a crescent wrench on the metal part that turns and a pipe wrench to hold the valve still. Then it was smooth sailing except for stripping the wires on the short bit attached to the oven. Had no desire to pull the oven out of the wall, so made it happen. Turned the gas and power back on and presto the oven lights again. The... Read more

• Little to no heat when broiling
• Little to no heat when baking
• Gas igniter glows, but will not light
• Won't start

If the oven burner would not light but the broiler would this indicated that the safety valve is OK. Problem had to be with the igniter. Removed the bottom panel in the oven and restarted the oven. The igniter would not glow at all. It should be brilliant red. This is where the problem came in. I could not find the location of the model on the Kenmore range anywhere you would normally look - the back, the wiring envelope, the oven door jamb etc. Also the igniter cannot be removed from... Read more

• Won't start
• No heat
• Little to no heat when broiling
• Oven not heating evenly

We were getting an intermittent F19 code on our lower oven mainly. This code gets triggered when the oven fails to heat up to a minimum temperature within a specific amount of time. I figured this was being caused by an ignition failure so I bought this new ignitor. As it turns out, if you have a double oven then you will have two ignitors. Just keep that in mind in case you are thinking about replacing both or you are seeing errors in both ovens. The ignitor in the lower oven is located below... Read more

Found a hole in the burner tube next to the igniter. Replaced both igniter and burner. Very easy repair. Works great now. Read more

• Won't start

Did some research to find out it was the electrode. Pulled out the old one to match what was on your site. It came in no time at all, and the replacement was a cinch. Read more

Removed the bottom tin work in the oven and removed the burner tube. Tried to remove the igniter bracket but the screws were too tight for the Phillips head and couldn't get vice grips to clamp on the head, so I bent the bracket enough to remove and replace the igniter. Then reassembled. I give AppliancePros.com a 5 star rating. Site was easy to use, the part was delivered in under 2 days, and it was the correct part packaged carefully so the igniter was protected from breaking. Read more

We ordered a new ignitor and it came in two days just as promised. The only problem that we experienced was that the leads on the new ignitor were to short. We were able to find enough slack on the oven end to make it work. The oven is once again working great. The video was a little off on what need to be done to disconnect the ignitor. We actually had to flip the oven over to get to the bottom. We could not access the connector through the back. Read more

• Won't start
• Gas igniter glows, but will not light
• Little to no heat when baking

Replaced the oven igniter, following the general instructions on the ApplicancePartsPro.com website. It took me a little while to figure out how to get to the wiring for the igniter, as I had no access panel on the back to get to the wires. In my particular Whirlpool oven (very old model) it turned out that you have to remove the pots/pans drawer under the oven to get to the exposed wiring at the back. Once I figured this out, the rest of the replacement was a snap. Read more