Kenmore / Sears Wall Oven Parts

• Noisy
• Tray won't turn

I fix this problem by purchasing a new turntable motor. Simple 5 minute installation. Read more

Tested the power to the unit by turning on the cooktop portion and saw that I had power to all of the burners. Turned the selector knob to broil and saw that the top element would heat up. I then turned off the breaker to the unit. I then decided to take out the baking element to do a continuity test. When I touched it, a 1.5 inch section fell out. Since that concluded my continuity test, I assumed I needed a baking element. After receiving the parts the NEXT DAY (amazingly great service... Read more

We ordered a igniter and a new regulator. My husband installed the parts it works great now. Read more

After doing some research the problem appeared to be the door safety switches. I ordered 3 new ones to replace all the original ones. Some minor disassembly of the microwave front was required to reach the fuse and switches. To reach the switches the control panel wires needed to be unplugged and the panel removed. After doing that replacing the switches was pretty strait forward. As of this comment the microwave has worked for 5 days without blowing the fuse so far. This has probably fixed the... Read more

I'm a 56 year old divorced woman. I started doing these kinds of repairs to save some money and honestly, to see if I could. So yes, if I can do it, it's not that tough to do. My microwave is built in above the stove - getting it down and back up was the hardest part of the job. An extra pair of strong hands really helps-for anybody, not just a 56 year old woman. The actual repair was pretty easy. Most likely problem was pretty obvious after a little research. Easy to take off cover, get... Read more

Replaced the oven burner, ignitor, and the safety valve. Read more

DIY. The delivery to Milwaukee took two days. The project was very easy and took about 1hr. The only tools required were a screw driver (electric) and a pliers. Just make sure your irganized with the screws so you don't lose any or mix up which ones go back in which holes. There's about 20 total screws. This $50 part saved me from having to buy my wife a $1000+ oven. Read more

• No heat

After dismounting the unit from its wall-hanging bracket, the most tedious part of the repair was removing over a dozen screws holding the cover in place from the top, bottom, and both sides. Fortunately, I had placed the unit on a bench that allowed me to slide the unit allowing access to the screws on the bottom edges of the unit. Always discharge the capacitor before continuing to work on the unit by discharging the capacitor by shorting the contact without the diode to ground. Access to the... Read more

• Takes too long to dry

Get some acetone at a Hardware Store before you start. A pint will do. Unplug the dryer from 110 VAC. Pull the top off of the dryer, by lifting it from the front first. It is attached with snap metal fittings. Do not completely remove the top, just tip upright to gain access to the front interior of the dryer. Before you pull any wires from the door switch, record which color wires go to which terminals on the door switch. If you reassemble the connections incorrectly, the gas value will... Read more

The F9 error code is supposed to indicate that the door lock mechanism has failed. My oven would give the F9 code and turn off during normal baking at 400 F after about 30-40 minutes. It turns out that GE must have programmed the error codes incorrectly in my model, because the real problem was that my control board cooling fan was no longer functional, and one of the two thermal switches was shutting off the unit when the control board area got too hot. AppliancePartsPros.com is one of the... Read more

I tried swapping the cables around by putting the cables from the burners that would light onto the ones that didn't light. When I did that the problem would move. So this is how i determined that the issue was with this module and not the burners or cables. Once this new module arrived it was simple to disconnect the old one and put the cables back on the new one. I tested it (holding by breath!) and then all of the burners started. HOORAY! Read more

Bought name brand parts to match the stove brand. The fit was perfect and have never had an order arrive the next day from ordering it. Read more

I ordered the correct part from AppliancePartsPros.com. When I received it, I opened the package and identified the parts I would need for my application. I cleaned up around my work space, then turned the power off to the appliance. I removed all the burners to get to the mounting screws for the range top. I then lifted the range top and supported it so I could see what I was working on . I first inspected all the wiring for breaks, or fraying. Then I moved on to the switch. Two screws... Read more

Ordered new Ignitor / Orifice and screws Mike was a great resource, he helped me thru the project. Read more

Checked the three door switches; used ohm meter to see if there was resistance or if a switch was bad. 2 out of 3 switches showed resistance with the ohm meter. The last one tested (of course the last one) NO (normally open) did not show resistance; I.e. the ohm meter reading did not change when the switch was depressed. Appliance parts pros was the only company that had the same model number I was looking for (SZW-V16-FD-63). I ordered the relay switch, 2 days later it arrived (regular... Read more

• Little to no heat when broiling

I had the choice of spending $2K on another double oven stove or $60 on two elements. (I felt more secure about replacing both bake and broil elements just in case the fire had damaged the bake element) It was an easy decision and quick replacement! Power was already off to the stove so I cleaned up the fire retardent mess. I even found easy instructions dismantling the oven door in order to clean the powder residue from between the glass. I then removed the rack and remaining old elements. I... Read more