Dryer Fuse Or Sensor

Replaced the heater, both thermostats and the belt, works perfectly now!! Read more

I found a few videos on YouTube about other dryers that gave me enough information to figure out my own. I was able to pull out the heater element and replace it with a new one that arrived the day after I purchased it. I also replaced the thermal fuse and thermostat. Read more

My first attempt was to replace the main board and then the thermistor, should have done this the other way around, turned out it was the thermistor, a pretty cheap part, dryer works great now. Repair requires removing the drum but overall not too difficult or time consuming. Read more

The 2 sensors that sit on top of the flame tube work together. The Thrmst F should check closed, as should the Cutoff-TML, in order for power to flow to the ignitor. If the Cutoff is open, it is usually because the Thrmst-F did not open soon enough. The Thermst-F will cycle, closed to open, and repeat, however the Cutoff-HTML is a one time switch. If it opens it will not return to closed, and subsequently the ignitor will not glow. Some professionals say that if one of these sensors fail, both... Read more

• Oven is too hot
• Little to no heat when baking

Removed old thermostat and pulled old thermocouple fron oven. ran new thermocouple to oven and put in clip, tistalled new thermostat using 2 phillips head screws, done. Read more

When starting my dryer the motor would power up and rotoe the drum and blower. Afetr about 20-30 seconds the igniter would come on then the gas valve would open and I would get heat for about 6 or 7 seconds then it would shut off. I know the burner is suppoed to cycle on and off but once the burner shut off it would not come bqack on unless I shut the dryer off and then back on. I checked for continuity on the thermistor, the thermal fuse and the high temp sensor. All three of them appeared to... Read more

I purchased a new heating element. Very easy to fix in about twenty minutes Read more

• Won't start

Replace the water temperature sensor and still had the error code. While I had the back of the machine open I ran the washer. I traced the black wires from the temperature sensor and wiggled them as the washer was running. At one zip tie every time i moved the wires the washer would stop running and the error code would flash. Sure enough, like many others posted, the vibration from the machine had split the wire. I spiced the wire back together and have not had a problem since. Read more

• Won't start

Through 15 years of vibration, the Cycling Thermostat evidently had degraded to the point where one electrical connection or more came loose and caused a short. There is also a possibility that the Bakelite section of the Dryer Cycling Thermostat body separated from the metal base, simultaneously exposing all four connections to a short. The thermostat literally exploded into chunks and dust. There was a heavy arcing and then, thankfully, the thermal fuse blew and shut down power to the short... Read more

I actually found a post from another brave soul who was willing to try to fix his, and had stated when he put the new limiter switch in, it fixed the problem. Since the whole back of the dryer needs to come off to get to the burner, and the limiter switch is inexpensive it seemed like common sense to take this approach first. After all, you don't put a new engine in your car if all it needs is a new battery! I also found posts that an overheating event could fry the main control board, and... Read more

Simple unscrewed the set screw, removed the broken sensor-moisture part, attached the leads, and reattached the part to the back of the dryer. Took about 4 minutes. Read more

Through 15 years of vibration, the Cycling Thermostat evidently had degraded to the point where one electrical connection or more came loose and caused a short. There is also a possibility that the Bakelite section of the Dryer Cycling Thermostat body separated from the metal base, simultaneously exposing all four connections to a short. The thermostat literally exploded into chunks and dust. There was a heavy arcing and then, thankfully, the thermal fuse blew and shut down power to the short... Read more

Replaced Thermal Fuse Read more

The 2 sensors that sit on top of the flame tube work together. The Thrmst F should check closed, as should the Cutoff-TML, in order for power to flow to the ignitor. If the Cutoff is open, it is usually because the Thrmst-F did not open soon enough. The Thermst-F will cycle, closed to open, and repeat, however the Cutoff-HTML is a one time switch. If it opens it will not return to closed, and subsequently the ignitor will not glow. Some professionals say that if one of these sensors fail, both... Read more

The part I ordered fixed my problem Read more