Kenmore / Sears Wall Oven Switch

I purchased 2 new light rocker switches, Because the heating element rocker switch was unavailable. First I removed the power source for safety. Then I simply pulled each switch out individually with a flathead screwdriver for leverage. I simply unplugged the wires from the old rocker switch, discarded the old rocker, plugged the wires into the new rocker switch, and pushed the new switch appropriately back into the control panel. I used the same steps for both rocker switches. Once... Read more

• Won't start

First, it was going to cost $95 for an appliance guy just to look at it! I figured there would be an upcharge on the parts + labor on top of the $95, so I took a chance & decided my husband & I could fix it cheaper; we were right, but it was a 3 week process (luckily, we have another microwave in the basement we were able to use in the meantime). I googled the microwave model #, then price checked the same item I thought we needed; printed off the diagrams of the various microwave "systems" &... Read more

I changed out the oven temp probe located inside the oven, and I also changed out the temperature control which is located behind the oven temperature control knob. The whole process was simple, but it took a little bit of time since we repaired it ourselves and had to located these parts inside the oven. Read more

I had one element that would operate wide open when turned on the low setting. It needed the switch replaced. Since I was replacing other elements I went ahead replaced them all, adding new drip pans and wiring kits to each new element. Once I replaced everything I was still having issues with the element that had the switch replaced. After further investigation my AC voltage readings were not correct at this element. I traced the problem back to the Molex connector feeding voltage to the... Read more

I replaced the switch/wire harness that connects to the gas valves. Read more

I was able to clean the Oven Temp Sensor with 99% alcohol. Then replaced All switches (after breaker was isolated). Put it all back the way I found it. Turned on breaker. Tested all functions and had no reports of Fan Code re-appearing since. Read more

I diagnosed this problem via the web and the advice was spot on. The problem was a failure of the bottom door switch. I used a multimeter to verify that the switched never closed properly. It took me a minute to figure out how to remove the old switch (press a release tab under the switch while simultaneously rotating counter-clockwise). That was about the most difficult part of the repair. Read more

My husband and myself didn't agree on which part was the exact problem. He felt it was the valve. I felt it was the ignitor/ orifice. And we both agreed the Harness-Ignitor needed to be replaced. So we ordered all 3, and I'm not sure if in fact all three were needed or not, but now with those parts replaced, the range is working like brand new!! Thanks to all the videos and diagrams on the website we were able to fix it ourselves easily. And the price was cheaper then other websites, also it... Read more

Remove front panel and replaced. Received parts fast. Read more

I replaced both the large single element and the large dual element control switches. It appears the resistors were burning out. Problem seems to be fixed. Will know later when I do some simmering. Read more

Removed & replaced igniter switch assembly. The hardest part was figuring out how to remove the range top...look up a YouTube video with your manufacturer and model number to see how to do it. Read more

I went on your website found the parts needed to make the repairs. I watched the short video on installation. The parts arrived just a few days after I placed the order. I finished the repair in less than an hour and had to wait a few minutes to test the switch since the power was off and on due to a wind storm. Simple easy to do repair and I saved $90.00 on service fee for a tech to do the repair. Read more

Relatively easy DIY Read more

Replaced the switch Read more