Maytag Cooktop Switch

Replaced switch with a new one. also replaced the 4 knobs Read more

Replaced two switches that controlled two front burners. One controlled three different burner sizes options in one burner. The other was the speed burner, basically three different burner options in one burner. Read more

You have to take the knob off the broken part, then buy the new switch element and fix it. To do this you turn the power off, take out 6 fasteners to release the front panel of the stove and replace the switch element. Then put it all back together. Very simple. But if the knob was designed better it would not have broken in the first place. It looks nice, but this is the third time I have had to fix one. Read more

Replacing the oven knob sensor was easy. Figuring out it was the sensor causing the circuit breaker to trip was the challenge. Read more

Replaced dual element switch. Fixed the problem. All is good Read more

Replaced two switches that controlled two front burners. One controlled three different burner sizes options in one burner. The other was the speed burner, basically three different burner options in one burner. Read more

Replaced the burner Infinite switches for the burners having the issue. Here are the latest part numbers for this model Maytag. Left rear (LR) and right rear (RR) burners are both 6" and use the same switch. Part # WP3149404. Left front (LF) is an 11 1/2" burner Part# W10167742. The right front (RF) burner is a double burner 6" center and 9 1/2" outside burner Part #WPW10149355. Very simple repair. Unplug the stove, remove the rear panel, remove the switch knob, remove the 2 switch screws,... Read more

So I ordered the burner and Ithe switch because I wasn't sure what part was defective. I pulled the oven out and I removed the 6 1/4 inch screws on each side of the glass top as well as the 2 Phillips head screws on the back, removing the 2 1/4 screws on the shield on the back gIves you easier access to them, then lifted the glass top up on the front to access the switch and burners. Make sure you turn the power off before beginning this process. When lifted up the wires connected to the... Read more

• Won't start

First, it was going to cost $95 for an appliance guy just to look at it! I figured there would be an upcharge on the parts + labor on top of the $95, so I took a chance & decided my husband & I could fix it cheaper; we were right, but it was a 3 week process (luckily, we have another microwave in the basement we were able to use in the meantime). I googled the microwave model #, then price checked the same item I thought we needed; printed off the diagrams of the various microwave "systems" &... Read more

First and foremost I UNPLUGGED THE OVEN!. I'll pass on the early morning SHOCK THERAPY! Second, I unscrewed aluminum protection plate from back of oven. Next, I unplugged the two connections behind the oven switch. Then I removed the plastic switch from the front and unscrewed the two screws that secured the oven switch to the oven. Once you've completed all these steps you take your new oven switch and do everything again but in reverse order. Hope this was informative, direct, and that your... Read more

Replaced the control that I think was bad from the purchase of the stove new as the burner didn’t throttle as is does now. Read more

Using the video on your site I was able to make the repair. It was a pretty straight forward repair. Thanks for having the diagram on your site for helping me find the right part. Read more

I was able to clean the Oven Temp Sensor with 99% alcohol. Then replaced All switches (after breaker was isolated). Put it all back the way I found it. Turned on breaker. Tested all functions and had no reports of Fan Code re-appearing since. Read more

Replaced the Infinite Switch and that solved the problem. Did not need to replace the Surface Element Read more

Replaced switch Read more