Cooktop Switch

• Won't start
• Element will not heat

After an internet search, the likely problem was a faulty "Element Switch.." I actually unplugged the stove and removed the switch (I did NOT disconnect the wires). I obtained the part number on the switch, disassembled it, observed that the contacts were highly degraded, reassembled the switch and reinstalled it back into the stove. This all provided confidence the SWITCH was faulty. One switch on the AppliancePartsPros.com website (AP2591804) looked exactly like the switch in the stove... Read more

I got online and found AppliancePartsPros.com. I found others had the same problem, and had replaced the switch, with my model number your rep got me the exact switch and a video on how to change it. It took approx 15-20 min . was very happy with the service, will use again in future if needed. Gary Read more

• Won't start
• Element will not heat

The fix was to replace the infinite control switch on my Whirlpool range. A simple task. Read more

• Won't start

I replace the Infinite Switch and that seems to be the trick for keeping the temperture under control. Read more

Watched the attached video, then followed directions and installed the part ordered. Read more

• Element will not heat

Replaced the burner Infinite switches for the burners having the issue. Here are the latest part numbers for this model Maytag. Left rear (LR) and right rear (RR) burners are both 6" and use the same switch. Part # WP3149404. Left front (LF) is an 11 1/2" burner Part# W10167742. The right front (RF) burner is a double burner 6" center and 9 1/2" outside burner Part #WPW10149355. Very simple repair. Unplug the stove, remove the rear panel, remove the switch knob, remove the 2 switch screws,... Read more

• Element will not heat

Stove is a GE Adora Model JBP63HH2bb. It took me forever to figure out how the burner was attached to the rails. My glass top was different than any instructions found on the internet for changing out a burner. The burners on this one are held to the bottom of the glass cook top by two rails that cross the bottom of the burner assemblies. In order to get too the burners you must remove 4 Phillips screws to lower the rails and burners from the cooktop. I suggest two people do this because... Read more

• Doesn't shut off
• No heat
• Won't start

The first symptom was our microwave would continue to run after the time was up. The light would go out, the turn table would stop but you could still hear the microwave running and whatever was in it would continue to cook. The only way to stop it was to open the door. It was intermittent at first but eventually it would always run no matter what as long as the door was closed. Several other posts referenced these switches as the problem. I just replaced both and problem gone. It turns out... Read more

• Element will not heat

Replaced all four element switches. Switches arrived within two days of ordering. That's about normal for AppliancePartsPros. They were the correct ones; not generic, and fit the original control knobs perfectly. This kind of service is what I'm used to from ApplicanePartsPros. Read more

• Will not drain
• Pumps but will not spin
• Timer will not advance
• Doesn't shut off

The lid shut-off switch is located behind the lid How About That. I order the plastic ball the hold the lid in place plus the lid shut off switch. I watched the video that AppliancePartsPros.com has on how to replace the lid and the plastic balls. I removed the lid to get to the two philips head screws to remove that part of the shut-off switch. I took the new switch out of the package and compared it to the old switch. I assembled the switch just like the old switch look using the new... Read more

• Won't start

Removed and replaced 3 door switches and mounting bar that holds switches plastic gets brittle with age and each switch comes out slightly different from each other, the chances of breaking a mounting pin is very easy. care should be taken when snapping mounting bar back into place to insure top latch and bottom latch locate properly insure bar is proper aligned when tightening screws their is free play in mounting bracket that could affect door properly engaging switches. NOTE that their are... Read more

I first diagnosed the problem by replacing the burner control (Infinite switch) with one from a smaller burner (one that I knew worked fine). That seemed to solve the problem. I ordered the correct control for the big burner on Saturday night, it arrived Tuesday and installed it in less than 10 minutes using only a Phillips screwdriver. Remember to unplug the stove before performing any service. Take this time to clean around and under the stove. (You know it needs it!) Read more

• Won't start

The full story: Dishwasher stopped running mid-cycle. When I first began troubleshooting I tried manually advancing the timer knob, and the machine would run. That led me to believe that the actual timer assembly was bad, so I replaced it. The dishwasher ran fine for a day, and then the same problem came back. This time, however, I also had to push in on the door to get it to run. I looked around online, and someone suggested that the door latch wasn't closing tightly enough. I adjusted the... Read more

Unscrewed the stove top, unplugged the connections, removed the stovetop. Replaced the burner and the switch. Put it back together again. Read more

The first symptom was our microwave would continue to run after the time was up. The light would go out, the turn table would stop but you could still hear the microwave running and whatever was in it would continue to cook. The only way to stop it was to open the door. It was intermittent at first but eventually it would always run no matter what as long as the door was closed. Several other posts referenced these switches as the problem. I just replaced both and problem gone. It turns out... Read more

• Element will not heat

Replaced burner switch and all was working properly. Great customer service and part replacement. Read more