Range / Cooktop / Oven Fuse Or Sensor

After doing some research the problem appeared to be the door safety switches. I ordered 3 new ones to replace all the original ones. Some minor disassembly of the microwave front was required to reach the fuse and switches. To reach the switches the control panel wires needed to be unplugged and the panel removed. After doing that replacing the switches was pretty strait forward. As of this comment the microwave has worked for 5 days without blowing the fuse so far. This has probably fixed the... Read more

The F9 error code is supposed to indicate that the door lock mechanism has failed. My oven would give the F9 code and turn off during normal baking at 400 F after about 30-40 minutes. It turns out that GE must have programmed the error codes incorrectly in my model, because the real problem was that my control board cooling fan was no longer functional, and one of the two thermal switches was shutting off the unit when the control board area got too hot. AppliancePartsPros.com is one of the... Read more

I looked diligently for this probe for many months and to no avail. So desperate to find it , I Goggled and found this provider for the probe. I was amazed at the timing of the receipt of the item. I received an email within hours that it had been shipped the same day and arrived at my home within less than 48 hours! The price was great and the item was easy to locate on the site.. Thank you for your attention and customer service. I will use these folks again! Read more

Online chat here said that the oven sensor should be replaced. I got the feeling that was a bit off, so I went with my gut and ordered the thermostat as well. Replaced the sensor and that didn't fix it. Replaced the thermostat and it worked like a charm! Disappointed that they were overconfident in their answer and it would have taken me more days to fix - but, the products came in quickly (basically, next day) and were correct. Online video for my particular oven was incorrect - but it's... Read more

Replaced the thermst-fix and the thermal fuse oven now works great Read more

• Doesn't shut off

Looked online. Others said to start with the thermostat because its cheap and easy to fix, so I did. The thermostat is located at the rear of the oven on the back. You need to remove a total of 3 panels to get to it. Do not confuse it with the thermal sensor at the rear of the oven on top. My thermostat was clearly deformed, and I had never run a self clean like other with testify to. Simply replace it - easy. Oven worked like new. Read more

Replaced fuse. It took much longer to get the oven out of the wall to access the fuse and replace the front panel than to do the repair. This fuse failed at the end of the cleaning cycle for the bottom oven and left the door locked because the open fuse removed the 120v power from the control board. The locked door made it impossible to remove one of the screws holding the wall oven in place. However, after I ground off the head of the screw behind the edge of the locked door I was able to... Read more

Replaced the sensor at the back of the oven. Read more

This is for the Whirlpool in-wall double oven GBD307PDS10. No power and the door locked after the shutdown before the self-cleaning cycle was over. I watched some video and this is a known issue the fuses blow during self-cleaning. I opened the door with a 90-degree hook, an easy task. Took doors off (watch video from others), unscrewed from the wall, and made a very small platform. and took the oven out (need two people and take the doors off first. The doors are heavy and you won't lift the... Read more

Ohmed the oven heat elements and oven sensor, they checked out fine. No broken or bad connections. Figured it had to be high limit switch opening or control panel. With Christmas meal around corner I ordered both. Oven working fine and my wife is happy. Read more

Like a boss! Seriously, removed oven from wall (2 screws), removed about 15 sheet metal screws from front and top covers, unplugged wire harnesses one (or a few) at a time. Reassembled. Hint. Take a picture of wiring before removing and mark old parts (especially thermal fuse) with sharpie before removing so you don't get confused. It's really hard to tell a used electrical part from a new one. Read more

• Won't start

I have a Jenn-Air microwave that didn't turn on and had no lights. It just stopped working completely. I unplugged the unit and had to remove the rear cover using a *security screw kit* that prevents people from opening the rear panel. Once opened, I removed the fuse and testing it with an OHM reader to determine that the fuse went bad. But I also had to determine why the fuse blew and noticed a sticky oily substance under the Capacitor. I used a rubber glove and needle nose pliers to... Read more

Replaced the bake element. The manufacturer did not leave enough wire to pull the connections into the oven so I had to open the back and locate the connections. Read more

We initially called a repair company who immediately diagnosed the fan, without opening up anything. They quoted $550 to repair. $159 of that was the fan part. Plus they told me the parts come from overseas and will take 2 week to arrive. I researched the model number and can part and found exactly what I was looking for on your site. Plus there were diagrams and forum discussions that boosted my confidence on repairing ourself. Using your parts diagrams and our manual information, we pulled... Read more