Wall Oven Parts

With the help of Ms.Kelly Hunt, AppliancePartsPros.com, I was able to locate the correct parts. It took approx. 30 minutes to remove the door and replace the shattered glass and bottom door trim. I wouldn`t hesitate to use this service for future use.The staff is friendly, helpful , knowledgeable and delivery is very fast. Thank you Martin Dobbins Read more

Ordered part using phone support to confirm correct part. Came fast. Used video on YouTube (not exactly the same but close enough) to help. Need Torx #15, 20 but no other special tools. Straight forward job. Be careful handling the broken glass! Read more

• Element will not heat
• Won't start

Turned off power supply. Removed two screws (near the oven door) holding the ceramic top. Slid the top forward, disengaged the two power supply cables, and removed one ground wire. Removed range top, and put on a flat surface. Unclamped two power supply wires, one ground wire and one thermocouple wire from the element. Unscrewed the bracket from the element, and remove the element from the range top. Remove the two clamps from the old element, and put them on the new element at the same... Read more

• Noisy
• Tray won't turn

I fix this problem by purchasing a new turntable motor. Simple 5 minute installation. Read more

My 18+ year old Jennair cooktop, PN CCG2520W was in need of a rebuild b/c of a welded venturi tube on the right front [RF] burner. In order to remove the glass top cover, you MUST remove the venturi tube. To do this you have to DRILL-OUT the venturi tube which requires a new venturi and orifice holder. The repair was difficult b/c most of the parts are no longer available. But then I found a ray-of-hope. I was able to find some Jennair (Maytag) parts but they are scarce. Later I found... Read more

• Door won't close

I have a Jennair jjw9630cas double wall oven, and after a few years I noticed that the light would not go out, first in the bottom oven, and then in the top oven. After doing some research I discovered this was not uncommon, and the fix usually involved replacing the hinges and/or the hinge receptacles. It didn't look like a difficult fix so I ordered four new hinges and four new receptacles, which arrived quickly. I found a video on YouTube that showed how to replace the hinges and it... Read more

I spoke with an associate of this company and she worked with me in finding the proper knob for the stove. I received it within 2 days and the knob fixed perfect. Thanks to the person who helped me.. Read more

Replaced the burner. Order arrived in under 2 days as stated, very pleased. Read more

Switches needed to be replaced. Make note of where each screw comes from. They were not all the same. To remove the front panel and get to the switches, you have to partially remove the cook top. Removed 5 screws from the back to release the cooktop. Slid the cooktop back far enough to expose screws holding on the front panel. Removed 4 screws from the top and 6-8 from the bottom (opened the oven door to get to the bottom screws). Removed screws from the front panel holding the switch in... Read more

• No heat

After dismounting the unit from its wall-hanging bracket, the most tedious part of the repair was removing over a dozen screws holding the cover in place from the top, bottom, and both sides. Fortunately, I had placed the unit on a bench that allowed me to slide the unit allowing access to the screws on the bottom edges of the unit. Always discharge the capacitor before continuing to work on the unit by discharging the capacitor by shorting the contact without the diode to ground. Access to the... Read more

Replaced oven sensor. The upper oven's broil element was badly deformed, and although it had nothing to do with the initial problem I chose to replace it at the same time. Read more

• Won't start
• No heat

Unplugged range, removed back panel. Loosened plug block from range, unhooked wires from existing element, then sliced through insulation between element ends with sharp knife. Removed screws holding element ends then removed element. Inserted new element, screwed it in place, connected wires and replaced plug block. Vacuumed up fiberglass insulation dust and replaced back panel. Replaced plug then tested. Read more

After doing some research the problem appeared to be the door safety switches. I ordered 3 new ones to replace all the original ones. Some minor disassembly of the microwave front was required to reach the fuse and switches. To reach the switches the control panel wires needed to be unplugged and the panel removed. After doing that replacing the switches was pretty strait forward. As of this comment the microwave has worked for 5 days without blowing the fuse so far. This has probably fixed the... Read more

Tested the power to the unit by turning on the cooktop portion and saw that I had power to all of the burners. Turned the selector knob to broil and saw that the top element would heat up. I then turned off the breaker to the unit. I then decided to take out the baking element to do a continuity test. When I touched it, a 1.5 inch section fell out. Since that concluded my continuity test, I assumed I needed a baking element. After receiving the parts the NEXT DAY (amazingly great service... Read more

DIY. The delivery to Milwaukee took two days. The project was very easy and took about 1hr. The only tools required were a screw driver (electric) and a pliers. Just make sure your irganized with the screws so you don't lose any or mix up which ones go back in which holes. There's about 20 total screws. This $50 part saved me from having to buy my wife a $1000+ oven. Read more