Whirlpool Dryer Parts

Originally the dryer was squeaking a lot, so I purchased a new belt tensioner, but the original tensioner was an old-style no wheel tensioner, so that wasn't the source of the squeaking. I saw a lot of lint had built up inside the unit where there shouldn't have been that much. So I viewed a few videos on the Appliance Pros site and saw that the rear wheel guides were the cause of the squeaking and the rear felt drum and blower housing seal needed to be replaced. The rear blower housing was... Read more

Watched You tube videos to narrow the problem down to old deteriorated gaskets. Read more

First ran the built-in diagnostic tests. Got error code indicating that the inlet thermistor was open. Removed lower access panel and did continuity checks on the inlet thermistor, thermal cutoff and heating element. Even doing these checks is very difficult on this model due to the location of these parts and the limited access through the so-called access panel. But was able to get an open reading on the heating element, so I knew that at least that part was faulty. Could not get a reliable... Read more

Use the videos on this website here and you can repair most brands. Many are duplicate in design. 1. Unplug the machine. 2. Move it away from a confined area to get more room. 3. Remove lint filter and the two screws that hold the exhaust filter port to the top of the cabinet. 4. Use a putty knife or actually a butter knife and release the top of the cabinet from the main drum housing. You will slide the knife between the top and the main cabinet at the plastic catches. Look for them and you... Read more

The help tech helped me troubleshoot what the problem might be, and we narrowed it down to a faulty switch. He helped us pick the right part, and the video was helpful - it gave me the confidence that I could fix it myself. The part came, and it only took me 5 minutes to change out the switch. Now my dryer works great! I saved my wife $500 for a new dryer! :) Read more

Our 19 year old Whirlpool dryer quit heating. After checking the thermal fuse, I found the ignitor electrically open. I bought an ignitor at a local store as there was a national holiday the next day and I did not want the dryer inoperative waiting several days for shipping. I can say AppliancePartsPros is MUCH cheaper for the identical Whirlpool genuine part. While changing the ignitor, I noticed there was an excessive amount of lint in the dryer, which was caused by worn drum seals. I ordered... Read more

Bought an OEM replacement. Cost more than the aftermarket part but fit perfectly. Read more

• Will not drain
• Pumps but will not spin
• Timer will not advance
• Doesn't shut off

The lid shut-off switch is located behind the lid How About That. I order the plastic ball the hold the lid in place plus the lid shut off switch. I watched the video that AppliancePartsPros.com has on how to replace the lid and the plastic balls. I removed the lid to get to the two philips head screws to remove that part of the shut-off switch. I took the new switch out of the package and compared it to the old switch. I assembled the switch just like the old switch look using the new... Read more

Removed old lint filter, inserted new one. Read more

Ordered a new filter and filter holder Read more

• Takes too long to dry

After having replaced the drum support rollers twice in a roughly 3yr period, I realized something wasn't quite right, and indeed it wasn't. I had been ordering the wrong parts - I did use the online parts locator after checking, & double checking my model number. Apparently my older Whirlpool dryer has a somewhat ambiguous model number because the rollers that were shipped each time looked nothing like the originals. I realize that is not particularily uncommon - manufacturers often modify... Read more

Purchased the gasket, but upset with myself I forgot the high temp adhesive.....a 13$ part and now 7$ for shipping. Think not for my mistake Read more

Checked thermal fuse, belt pulley switch, door switch, and motor windings (primary 2.3 ohms start 2,2 ohms). Called Appliance Pros, told them my problem. They said that it appears to be the motor even though the ohm readings seam Ok and that I could return the motor if it was not the problem. I ordred the motor and blower wheel. Installed the new motor and everything worked! The only difficult part was that the motor blower had to be chiseled out. Their motor repair video was a great help. Read more

Purchased, Igniter Kit, Gas Valve Coil Kit, and as a precaution Thermal Fuse and Cutoff-Tml. Was pretty confident the problem was the gas valve coil, but figured that why not just replace the other items while I had the unit apart. Researching and utilizing this site certainly helped me out in figuring what the problem may be. Watched the instruction videos which were very detailed and helpful. The replacement and repair was not that difficult and the work was done rather quickly. Doing... Read more

Replaced the Rollers, Pins, belt and belt tensioner. One thing to keep in mind. In the video it was said that the back and front roller pins were different by lengths. They were the same length for my model. The differences were found to be the rear pins have left handed threads and the front ones were standard right hand threads. Keep that in-mind when you are trying to remove them. Read more

• Doesn't shut off
• Won't start
• Will not tumble

The timer knob simply pulls off the shaft with a solid, steady pull. Cleaned the timer cavity of lint/dust buildup. Aligned the keying flat of the shaft and knob and pushed the new knob on with careful, steady pressure until it was obviously seated. No tools required other than a vacuum. The door switch would sometimes not shut the dryer off when the door was opened. New switch came with new fast-on connectors. Replacement required opening the top cover of the dryer and hinging it up. This... Read more