Kenmore / Sears Range Parts

Well, I gotta say I was happy to find you still had parts for almost 20 year old microwaves. The microwave itself worked fine, so I hated to have to buy a new one, but I just couldn't take being hit in the head anymore; and my fix of using string and wire to tie it to the surrounding cabinets was unsightly to say the least. I'm glad I did some research and found this part - all I had to do was pop it in place and now the vent grill is secure. Problem solved with minimal cost. Read more

• Element will not heat

Replace burner and receptacle. The product arrived promptly after order and the receptacle came in a factory Whirlpool bag, indicating it was a genuine Whirlpool part. The burner did not have such identification, but works very good. I've placed 3 orders with these folks for various broken appliances, and each one has worked as advertised and performs like new. Read more

Ordered correct replacement parts (your online form helped to identify correct valves 2 had black dot on inside stem for back small burner 1 had red dot for larger front burner). locked stove, turned off gas, unplugged cord. removed knobs, 5 screws and front plate also removed L shaped plate below knobs for better access to comp. fittings. pulled off ignitior controls loosened compression fittings (hard to get wrench on nut but doable), removed screw holding valve to manifold. reversed order... Read more

Repair man said that the part alone would cost more than $300.00. I checked it out on YouTube and saw that the actual replacement was an easy task. I contacted appliancepartspros.com and spoke to Wendy, who sorted me out with the correct part which arrived in two days ($115.00). It took me less than 15 minutes to replace the part, no more leak. Thanks appliancepartspros.com and Wendy for your cost effective and speedy service. Read more

• Door won't close

My dryer door would not stay shut because the door strike was stuck in the door catch. I was afraid that when I pulled the strike out, it would damage the catch, so I ordered the door strike and door catch. I got the damaged door strike out with needle nosed pliers in about 15 seconds. The door catch was in perfect condition so I didn't need to use the one I ordered. So then I proceeded to install the new door strike. That took me about 15 minutes because I did not have the manual strength to... Read more

I am plagiarizing some info from the techs.. 1. Turn off the electrical supply to the range. 2. Remove the oven door and position it on a protected floor or "truck tailgate".(here I googled, "removing oven door on super capacity 465" ...my model had clips at the hinge that I had to pop out)... lay down the handle and outer door glass facing up. 3. Raise the top of the door and remove the two screws that secure the top of the door trim and the handle to the door liner, then remove the handle and... Read more

There was no power coming out of the control board to the igniter so I replaced the board and walay it work and all is good in the kitchen Read more

Replaced the oven burner, ignitor, and the safety valve. Read more

The glass was easily replaced. Just a few screws to remove cover then remove bad glass then i dropped in the replacement glass then reinstalled cover. Ithen put the door back in the stove. 15 minute job!!! I was so surprised to see how easy it was!!! Thanks! Part fit perfectly!!! Read more

• Element will not heat

Ordered a new terminal block kit from Appliance Parts Pros. Shipping was lightening fast. Slapped the new part on my stove and its never worked better. Thanksgiving was saved! I'd replace the rest of my stove's terminal blocks if they weren't $50 a piece...sheesh! Read more

Based on internet search and data found on APPLIANCE PARTS PRO, I deduced that the "infinite control " module was most likely bad. Replaced it and all is good. Toughest part was remembering how to disengage cooktop from down draft blower and then pulling the cook top up in within it's opening. Once pulled up, I put short 2x4's across the opening corners to support the cooktop safely while I worked on it. Next issue was figuring out exactly which screws held the glass top in place. As... Read more

GE Microwave/Convection Oven. Removed case (carefully). Tested in-line power cord fuse with multi-meter. Fuse was good. Noticed a scorch mark on a wire connected to the oven cavity thermal fuse. The fuse appeared to have been overheated from too much movement in it's mount. Removed part from unit and used number on the part to order a new one. Installed new part, re-assembled, and unit works fine. Read more

• Element will not heat

Unplug range. Open oven door to gain access to the cook top lock-down screws, located under the front edge of the cook top. Tip the cook top up and carefully remove it by pulling forward. Set aside in a safe place. Remove old, burned-out, element by removing the single lock tab, located on one of the three mounting posts, then lift up. Leave the wiring attached. Flip the element over and remove the three mounting tabs, making note of their numbered locations. Transfer the mounting tabs to... Read more

Replaced switch with a new one. also replaced the 4 knobs Read more

Ordered new Ignitor / Orifice and screws Mike was a great resource, he helped me thru the project. Read more

• Won't start

I purchased a new igniter for the bake assembly and found that it, unfortunately, did not resolve my problem. I measured the resistance of the different points on the gas valve and it was reading within spec so I then purchased this spark module and it did the trick. My gas range is a Kitchenaid kgsk901sss02. I had a LOT of trouble finding where the spark module is located, and eventually found a schematic that shows it's location behind the front control panel of the oven. Upon taking the... Read more