Hotpoint Washer Parts

Noticed that lid lock light was not on, googled problem, ordered parts, working on 3rd day. Read more

I opened the cover panel of the control board. I visually checked for burns on the board and verified all connectors were firmly seated. I opened the bottom of the unit, and I saw the service manual in a zip-lock bag. From this manual, I verified that the drain pump resistance is good, the start capacitor is good, and the lid switch is good. I entered diagnostic service mode. Persistent alarms are 4 and 25.Error 4 means Reset Monitor, while Error 25 means Pressure Sensor Dropout. I... Read more

I found a YouTube video, order the parts about midnight Saturday and-they came in the mail before lunch on Tuesday. I laid the washer on the rear panel, removed both pulleys to clean them, installed the speed sensor. bolted the pulleys back in place, installed the new belt-making sure it was centered and everything moved freely, and attached the belt/pulleys cover. I set the washer back up, reattached the water lines, placed the drain tube, and plugged in back in. Works like new !!! 30 minutes... Read more

GE Washer m/n GTW460ASJ6WW would allow other fill levels, but when set to "super" it would never stop filling. Checked water inlet valve (by initiating a fill and unplugging the unit) to see if the inlet valve was sticking open, that was not the issue. Decided to replace the board even though it is a significant fraction of the cost of a new washer. Local appliance stores didn't have the board but APP did, and of course, they are open 24/7 while my local part stores have decided the weekend is... Read more

I put this repair off for a long time because I knew the machine would have to be completely torn down to fix it. The repair videos give you the impression that this condition is caused by a bad 'Tub Bearing' which takes a long time to replace but only costs about $15. Don't be lulled into thinking you can fix this for $15. The 'Tub Bearing' is really only a bushing. The one I removed from my washer looked fine but I replaced it anyways. The real problem here is GE's poor design which allows a... Read more

After researching the problem on this site, I realized that the most likely cause was a bad bearing contained in the shaft & tube assembly. Essentially, the tub seal failed & allowed water to travel down the shaft & into the housing containing the bearing. I confirmed this by pulling the front cover off of the unit & noticed some brown water pooled directly under the shaft & tube assembly. I followed the disassembly instructions on this site & it wasn't too bad but did take some time as pretty... Read more

Replaced the belt. Read more

I ordered the parts, after assuring my diagnosis was correct from APP’s knowledgeable representative, and they were shipped quickly. I tipped the washer and disassembled the parts to be replaced and then installed a new clutch, clutch spring and mode shifter. Read more

• Will not tumble
• Won't start
• Noisy

My GE dryer from the late 80's/early 90's was squealing when it would start up, belt or bearing I was thinking. I found a manual online that covered my model and I watched a video on this site that showed me how to take it all apart, mine was a bit different but the principles were the same. I took it apart and added some quick-disconnects to 2 wires so next time I can take the front panel off easily. When I got to the bearing it looked worn but not bad so I cleaned it and put it back. ... Read more

Ordered a new timer and knob. The husband was able to fix in about 20 minutes and now works like new. Read more

Remove one bolt in the center of the agitator need a long extension, couldn't be any easier. Read more

Replaced hose with new one from Appliance Parts. Delivery was exceptionally fast. Appliance was up and running next day. Read more

Ordered agitator. Removed old agitator by prying up one side of the agitator and then moving the agitator around in a circle while prying up a little at a time because the clips pop off underneath separately and once a few of them come loose the remaining slide off making a clean removal rather than the "jerking-straight-up-and-into-your-face-and-neck-disaster-waiting-to -happen removal". Cleaned salt buildup from using brand name household detergent for the last 4 months (currently in rental... Read more

• Spins slowly
• Will not agitate

After researching the problem on this site, I realized that the most likely cause was a bad bearing contained in the shaft & tube assembly. Essentially, the tub seal failed & allowed water to travel down the shaft & into the housing containing the bearing. I confirmed this by pulling the front cover off of the unit & noticed some brown water pooled directly under the shaft & tube assembly. I followed the disassembly instructions on this site & it wasn't too bad but did take some time as pretty... Read more

My 9-year-old GE washer, in which I replaced the motor two years ago, developed an extremely loud roaring sound during the spin cycle. After reviewing stories here to pinpoint the problem, I replaced the tub bearing, mode shifter, and tub seal. I also installed a new tub nut, split washer, and belt. This repair involves taking the washer apart in order to get at the tub bearing and mode shifter, which are inconveniently located in the very center of the machine. I bagged labeled all the... Read more

Replaced rear bearing, upper and lower felts, drive belt. Have repaired dryer before for same problem years ago, knew what to do, on line diagrams helped to move memory. Cleaned all accumulated lint out of machine.Belt was changed only out of age.Looked good but thought to be on safe side. Read more