Hotpoint Parts

• Oven is too hot

Well it wasn't hard to replace at all pretty easy. But trying to figure out what the problem was that got me. I turned of my oven and the light continued to stay on like it wasn't turn off but it was. I researched it and said it was the oven elements not true I was already confused enough so I said let go to the source of what make oven come on the oven control knob so I took the old switch off and looked up the numbers and ordered the part and lucky me that was the problem less than 50$ to fix... Read more

• No heat or not enough heat

Changed out high limit thernasstat Read more

Ordered replacement drip pans Read more

We ordered a door switch, dryer latch and strike plate. We realized that we only needed to replace the door switch. We watched a few videos and then replaced the switch. We couldn’t find a video for our model but they did give us a pretty good idea about what we needed to do. The hardest part was getting the original door switch out, all of the videos we watched showed us that it would pop out with a little pressure from a flat head screw driver, from the front of the switch. We could not get... Read more

The freezer door on my 12-yr old GE side-by-side refrigerator/freezer would not stay completely shut resulting in temperature variations and ice buildup from outside humidity seeping into the freezer compartment. These problems were exacerbated by the fact that this appliance is located in my garage in the heat / humidity of the Atlanta, GA area. I applied a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the gasket which improved the seal but did not completely solve the problem. I discovered that... Read more

Cleaned off the oil or grease that somehow was all over the drive belt. Installed new drive belt. Installed 2 new left (blue) and 2 new right (red) rod and spring assembly. This fixed the out of balance issue during spin cycle. Read more

After disconnecting power to the fridge, I first removed the ice maker/water dispenser/fridge control faceplate. This easily popped out using a flat head screw driver. Then disconnected the 3 wire harness connections to the control board. I next removed the plastic dispenser housing shield. There's only 4 screws that hold this on. Finally, I removed the Micro-switch, disconnected the two wire connectors and installed the replacement switch and reinstalled everything. The repair took only... Read more

Did continuity tests on the sensors, till I figured out what one was bad. Read more

Cleaned off the oil or grease that somehow was all over the drive belt. Installed new drive belt. Installed 2 new left (blue) and 2 new right (red) rod and spring assembly. This fixed the out of balance issue during spin cycle. Read more

I got on the site and shared my issue. It was determined my door switches were bad, as well as my actuator. I ordered the parts (which arrived in just 2 days!) and I fixed it myself in just under 10 minutes, for under $30.00. Thanks guys!!!! Read more

Replacing head burner d solved the problem. The 8 year old original developed a mild warp, replacing it was the solution. GE gas cook top Model JGP933SEK1SS. I replaced the other burner caps for a cosmetic renewal. Read more

Ordered New Gasket and installed in about 3-4 Minutes. Only need small pliers to remove some of old clips from holes. New Gasket clipped in easily by hand. Read more

Replaced the heating element. Read more

I replaced all 3 remaining burner controls because they were all original (mid 1970s GE electric range w/coil burners), and one of the controls occasionally made arcing sounds when cycling the burner on and off. If a control is making odd noises - more than just a quiet metallic clicking as it cycles - it should be replaced. I'm assuming you have experience with the tools needed and can do simple mechanical assembly or disassembly, but have not previously worked with electrical equipment of... Read more

The repair went great with the guidance from your website and the parts that we purchased! also the video was great! Read more

Changed ignitor. Ordered new ignitor by just putting dryer model number in the search box. When I opened the dryer up and took the old one out I was originally upset. The meter read 73 ohms. I was expecting OL (open line). The new one read 273 ohms so I put it in. Dryer works now. The install video’s are old. It was much easier than the video’s showed. Opening the control panel was a little trickier than the video. You do NOT need to take screws off the back of the dryer. There are 2 screws... Read more