Whirlpool 279827 Dryer Drive Motor OEM Part

My 12 year old Kenmore dryer problem started about 3 years ago with the motor just stopping. My thing was: I would turn it off and turn the drum by hand about halfway around and it would work again. Last month, my wife said it stopped again and its making a loud noise, but when I did "my thing" it still made a loud squealing noise (like I was killing a mouse). I made time to work on it the next day, I took it apart, using the video instructions from AppliancePartsPros, I removed the top, front, belt, and drum. I plugged it in with the door switch connected back, pushed START and confirmed the motor had a bad bearing that was squealing. I think my sons had overloaded it sometimes, my wife? NAH, "she is more careful". I ordered the motor by checking my Kenmore model # on AppliancePartsPros.com . The motor came quickly and on schedule for my shipping method. The motor is an exact replacement for my original, no splicing wires. I did order a new blower fan wheel that attaches to the back of the motor after hearing these often get stuck on the drive-shaft. My fan wheel was stuck and I had to chisel it off with a large flat screwdriver and a hammer, cut like wax or hard butter. I also ordered a kit with new: belt, rollers, and tension idler wheel. The belt was worn but not bad yet (set aside for later) but the tension idler was not a wheel but a curved nylon shoe, very worn. The new tension idler wheel is an improvement and was needed. All together in about an 1 hour (not including 2 hours of completely cleaning out all lint and dust inside dryer and laundry room). Follow all safety directions and watch for sharp metal edges. always clean the dryer out.

I have a 1982 manufactured Whirlpool Imperial Seventy gas dryer. I have respect for any appliance that has lasted 35 years and will sooner repair it if possible than buy a new one that may not last three years. One of the roller bearings the drum rides on appeared to have gotten tight over time to the point where it must have overloaded the main motor until it finally burned out. I ended up replacing both roller bearings, the drive belt, and the main motor. The most complex part was the main motor, since it does not have a simple harness connection as with newer dryers, but individual connections to terminals on the motor switch. Also, the thermal overload switch on modern dryers is jumpered to a spare terminal on the motor switch so it can be connected to the dryer wiring as part of the harness; in older dryers, it is a separate connection. By keeping track of where the wires went (the terminals on both the old and new motor are numbered), and using some helpful instructions I found in a repair forum, I was able to complete the repair successfully. Another thing to keep in mind - the shaft of the motor is connected to the blower wheel at the back end. Use an adjustable wrench to hold the blower wheel in place and a 7/16" wrench to rotate the motor shaft clockwise at the front (pulley) end to unthread the wheel. Since the blower wheel is made of plastic, you need to be careful not to use something that has a rough surface to avoid stripping it. The dryer now runs smoothly, and while I don't anticipate that this new motor will last 35 years, it will be worth my time if it lasts five. The parts I ordered from Appliance Parts Pros were sent promptly. I paid for two day shipping and they arrived in one. I would order from them again.

Ordered a motor on line, ended up also purchasing a blower wheel also. Couldn't remove wheel from motor shaft, scessed up. Used a chisel to punch a hole in old blower motor around shaft so motor could be removed and replaced. Replaced wheel. Works great.

Read blog on dryer problems and trouble shot problem to bad motor.ordered motor,got it in about a week.Had already fully cleaned dryer compartment so was ready for new motor.motor fit perfectly and also performed perfectly

It took two repair attempts to fix the dryer. At first, I noticed that the rear felt seal was completely worn out, so I thought that extra friction between the tub and the rear panel might be causing the motor to have to work too hard and overheat. I ordered a new seal from appliancepartspros.com, and installed it according to their instructional video, but it did not correct the problem. Then I decided that the motor must be going bad, so I watched the on-line video on how to remove the motor and detached it from the blower fan. Then I removed the motor form our dryer, basically just like the video showed. The video had also mentioned that the old blower fan may be stuck or get damaged and that it may need to be chiseled off, which actually did happen to me. However, the video also showed how to do that, so it wasn't difficult to do. I ordered a new motor and blower fan on a Friday morning and the parts arrived on Tuesday afternoon. The installation went very well and within an hour the dryer was working like new. I also recently had to replace the element in our dishwasher and the main electronics module in our stove and those repairs went just as smooth and easy. I really appreciate the installation and repair videos that are available on appliancepartspros,com, as well as their large selection of part and their extremely reasonable prices, as well as their reasonable shipping fees and their return 365-Day, any part, any reason return policy.