Wall Oven Switch

• Won't start

Bought this switch gas valve for the non-functional burner, and it cleared right up. Read more

Searched internet for answers. Decided to replace the door switch. Drier now runs great! Read more

Ordered the element control for my dual front right burner and a infinite heat switch for my left front large single burner. Removed cooktop and followed the instructions video given with the parts online. Process was simple and everything on my cooktop is working like it is brand new. The only problem I have is with the online chat, save time by calling in and talking to someone as the people I talked to online (4 of them) are in such a hurry to get to the next call they gave conflicting part... Read more

• Won't start
• Element will not heat

1) I installed 4 ea new Whirlpool 700855K switches. (The old switches had INF-240P-871 stamped on them. 700855K was the cross-referenced P/N.) The installation was easy. There is slight difference in the terminal arrangement: 1) the old switch has raised terminals whereas the new switch has recessed terminals (for safety), and 2) the terminal markings are slightly different: The old switch has L1/L2/P/H1/H2 (5 terminals). The new switch has L1/L2/P/HC/H1(Also five terminals. I saw where one... Read more

Took out the old part and installed the new one. Read more

Replaced two switches that controlled two front burners. One controlled three different burner sizes options in one burner. The other was the speed burner, basically three different burner options in one burner. Read more

I replaced both the probe and temp control. The problem came in calibrating the new control, the instructions that came with control did not factor in a double oven, called back and talked to Michael at tech support and he found proper instructions, walked me through the process and sent me a PDF file with all information needed. I can't thank Michael and AppliancePartsPros.com enough for their service after the sale. I would definitely recommend and use it again. Read more

So I ordered the burner and Ithe switch because I wasn't sure what part was defective. I pulled the oven out and I removed the 6 1/4 inch screws on each side of the glass top as well as the 2 Phillips head screws on the back, removing the 2 1/4 screws on the shield on the back gIves you easier access to them, then lifted the glass top up on the front to access the switch and burners. Make sure you turn the power off before beginning this process. When lifted up the wires connected to the... Read more

I purchased 2 new light rocker switches, Because the heating element rocker switch was unavailable. First I removed the power source for safety. Then I simply pulled each switch out individually with a flathead screwdriver for leverage. I simply unplugged the wires from the old rocker switch, discarded the old rocker, plugged the wires into the new rocker switch, and pushed the new switch appropriately back into the control panel. I used the same steps for both rocker switches. Once... Read more

• Doesn't shut off

Took out igniter module and porcelain was cracked. Replaced with ordered part and it worker fine! Read more

Replaced the burner Infinite switches for the burners having the issue. Here are the latest part numbers for this model Maytag. Left rear (LR) and right rear (RR) burners are both 6" and use the same switch. Part # WP3149404. Left front (LF) is an 11 1/2" burner Part# W10167742. The right front (RF) burner is a double burner 6" center and 9 1/2" outside burner Part #WPW10149355. Very simple repair. Unplug the stove, remove the rear panel, remove the switch knob, remove the 2 switch screws,... Read more

• Won't start

First, it was going to cost $95 for an appliance guy just to look at it! I figured there would be an upcharge on the parts + labor on top of the $95, so I took a chance & decided my husband & I could fix it cheaper; we were right, but it was a 3 week process (luckily, we have another microwave in the basement we were able to use in the meantime). I googled the microwave model #, then price checked the same item I thought we needed; printed off the diagrams of the various microwave "systems" &... Read more

First and foremost I UNPLUGGED THE OVEN!. I'll pass on the early morning SHOCK THERAPY! Second, I unscrewed aluminum protection plate from back of oven. Next, I unplugged the two connections behind the oven switch. Then I removed the plastic switch from the front and unscrewed the two screws that secured the oven switch to the oven. Once you've completed all these steps you take your new oven switch and do everything again but in reverse order. Hope this was informative, direct, and that your... Read more

The parts are under the stovetop and the knobs are attached to them. We bought the correct ones from AppliancePartsPros, these were the correct ones. Seems we have an oddball stovetop. It's a GE drop in stove. The parts were easy to change. It was a simple matter of putting the wires on the new switch in the same place there were on the switch. I took phone pics of the wire locations before I took them off and only did one switch at a time. Turn the power off at the breaker panel first of... Read more

Replaced the control that I think was bad from the purchase of the stove new as the burner didn’t throttle as is does now. Read more

I had one element that would operate wide open when turned on the low setting. It needed the switch replaced. Since I was replacing other elements I went ahead replaced them all, adding new drip pans and wiring kits to each new element. Once I replaced everything I was still having issues with the element that had the switch replaced. After further investigation my AC voltage readings were not correct at this element. I traced the problem back to the Molex connector feeding voltage to the... Read more