Jenn-Air Parts

• Won't start
• Element will not heat

Based on internet search and data found on APPLIANCE PARTS PRO, I deduced that the "infinite control " module was most likely bad. Replaced it and all is good. Toughest part was remembering how to disengage cooktop from down draft blower and then pulling the cook top up in within it's opening. Once pulled up, I put short 2x4's across the opening corners to support the cooktop safely while I worked on it. Next issue was figuring out exactly which screws held the glass top in place. As... Read more

I was able to clean the Oven Temp Sensor with 99% alcohol. Then replaced All switches (after breaker was isolated). Put it all back the way I found it. Turned on breaker. Tested all functions and had no reports of Fan Code re-appearing since. Read more

If one control starts to fail the rest are sure to follow soon - so I replaced all four on our JennAir S160. Looked up the parts on line. Due to my background as an aviation electrician in the Navy and then working as an electrical systems designer for a defense contractor the toughest part was the clean up. Oh Well. Read more

Replace dual infinity switch. The only difficulty is the terminal labels on the new switch did not match at all with the terminal labels on the original switch. The enclosed instructions were NOT helpful. But I contacted your representative, Johnny, and he was most helpful and patient. From my model number he located very specific and detailed instructions for how to wire the new switch. The rest of the job was easy. Your representative was outstanding. Thanks. Read more

Removed bottom cover, located leak at float switch, removed and replaced float switch kit. The toughest part of the repair was removing the Float & Retainer Assembly (in the interior of the machine tank) which broke when I pushed it back and pulled it straight up as suggested in the service manual. The Float Switch Kit (attached to, and below the float, below and outside the tank) has a folding plastic cover which fastens with plastic clips. If you open the switch kit before removing the... Read more

• Will not fill with water
• Will not agitate

First I needed to replaced the timer. However that timer is no longer available. So I was not able to buy that part. A friend encouraged me to cross reference the part number. I did and I found another timer that claimed it would work on my machine. It looked very similar. I got the timer from you guys and put it in. The water valves worked right away but the motor did not. I researched more troubleshooting ideas and discovered I had a bad lid check switch. I got a new one of those from you... Read more

I used your chat and found out the year my stove was made. He also told me what part to order as one of the burners had stopped heating up. We watched the video on how to install it. My friend installed it and my stove burner now works. Read more

Put in a new infinite switch behind the knob to control temp level. Read more

Replaced switch with a new one. also replaced the 4 knobs Read more

Replaced the motor with a direct replacement part. The wiring was not the same because the switch on the motor was different. The instructions that came with the motor were enough for me to figure out what to do. Read more

You have to take the knob off the broken part, then buy the new switch element and fix it. To do this you turn the power off, take out 6 fasteners to release the front panel of the stove and replace the switch element. Then put it all back together. Very simple. But if the knob was designed better it would not have broken in the first place. It looks nice, but this is the third time I have had to fix one. Read more

Ordered the freezer door switch and the light. Replaced the freezer door switch and the light and everything is back to normal. Replaced both in less than 15 min with no problems. Read more

• Won't start
• Element will not heat

1) I installed 4 ea new Whirlpool 700855K switches. (The old switches had INF-240P-871 stamped on them. 700855K was the cross-referenced P/N.) The installation was easy. There is slight difference in the terminal arrangement: 1) the old switch has raised terminals whereas the new switch has recessed terminals (for safety), and 2) the terminal markings are slightly different: The old switch has L1/L2/P/H1/H2 (5 terminals). The new switch has L1/L2/P/HC/H1(Also five terminals. I saw where one... Read more

So I ordered the burner and Ithe switch because I wasn't sure what part was defective. I pulled the oven out and I removed the 6 1/4 inch screws on each side of the glass top as well as the 2 Phillips head screws on the back, removing the 2 1/4 screws on the shield on the back gIves you easier access to them, then lifted the glass top up on the front to access the switch and burners. Make sure you turn the power off before beginning this process. When lifted up the wires connected to the... Read more

• Won't start

First, it was going to cost $95 for an appliance guy just to look at it! I figured there would be an upcharge on the parts + labor on top of the $95, so I took a chance & decided my husband & I could fix it cheaper; we were right, but it was a 3 week process (luckily, we have another microwave in the basement we were able to use in the meantime). I googled the microwave model #, then price checked the same item I thought we needed; printed off the diagrams of the various microwave "systems" &... Read more

Watched your video and replaced the switch Read more