Maytag Fuse Or Sensor

• Won't start

My friend researched online what would make a dishwasher just stop working, no power. The person on the you tube video showed how to first start with the thermal fuse. Then searched online for the thermal fuse. You had the part for a small price. I felt it was worth trying to see if that may be the issue. IT WORKED!! I was without a dishwasher for over a year, was planning to by a brand new one but for $23.00 now have a working dishwasher!! YEAH! Read more

Changed parts Read more

For several months we could smell a slight odor of propane in the laundry room and wondered why, just didn't seem like it was enough to be overly concerned, but thought something must be wrong with the dryer, but it was still working. We just didn't know how inefficiently. Then the extra time it took to dry a load of clothes progressively seemed to get longer, but things still seemed to work fine and the clothes got dried, given enough time. Then approximately 3 weeks ago we noticed the dryer... Read more

Order a new bin thermostat and replaced the old one and it seems to be working fine. Thanks Read more

Replaced Thermal Cutoff sensor. Read more

It is difficult (if not impossible) to remove the electronic switches from the hard plastic latches. I replaced all three switches and both the upper and lower latches I also replaced the main 20 amp ceramic fuse which blew out when the latch/switches failed. Read more

Checked online with app and figured out the most common cause of the problem after checking the most obvious causes. Ordered the fuse received on the second day. Installation was very simple and the dishwasher was again functional. Read more

The 2 sensors that sit on top of the flame tube work together. The Thrmst F should check closed, as should the Cutoff-TML, in order for power to flow to the ignitor. If the Cutoff is open, it is usually because the Thrmst-F did not open soon enough. The Thermst-F will cycle, closed to open, and repeat, however the Cutoff-HTML is a one time switch. If it opens it will not return to closed, and subsequently the ignitor will not glow. Some professionals say that if one of these sensors fail, both... Read more

• Won't start

Replace the water temperature sensor and still had the error code. While I had the back of the machine open I ran the washer. I traced the black wires from the temperature sensor and wiggled them as the washer was running. At one zip tie every time i moved the wires the washer would stop running and the error code would flash. Sure enough, like many others posted, the vibration from the machine had split the wire. I spiced the wire back together and have not had a problem since. Read more

• Won't start

Through 15 years of vibration, the Cycling Thermostat evidently had degraded to the point where one electrical connection or more came loose and caused a short. There is also a possibility that the Bakelite section of the Dryer Cycling Thermostat body separated from the metal base, simultaneously exposing all four connections to a short. The thermostat literally exploded into chunks and dust. There was a heavy arcing and then, thankfully, the thermal fuse blew and shut down power to the short... Read more

I purchased a new heating element. Very easy to fix in about twenty minutes Read more

Through 15 years of vibration, the Cycling Thermostat evidently had degraded to the point where one electrical connection or more came loose and caused a short. There is also a possibility that the Bakelite section of the Dryer Cycling Thermostat body separated from the metal base, simultaneously exposing all four connections to a short. The thermostat literally exploded into chunks and dust. There was a heavy arcing and then, thankfully, the thermal fuse blew and shut down power to the short... Read more

I attempted to diagnose the four thermostats/thermal switches in the microwave....two right behind the control panel, one on top of the cooking cabin, and one under a metal shroud above the magnetron. While checking continuity with a voltmeter, i questioned one of them behind the control panel and the one above the magnetron. I then noticed a burn mark on the plastic connector sleeve for the one above the magnetron. I took a scrap piece of 14 gage copper wire and beat the ends flat with a... Read more

The 2 sensors that sit on top of the flame tube work together. The Thrmst F should check closed, as should the Cutoff-TML, in order for power to flow to the ignitor. If the Cutoff is open, it is usually because the Thrmst-F did not open soon enough. The Thermst-F will cycle, closed to open, and repeat, however the Cutoff-HTML is a one time switch. If it opens it will not return to closed, and subsequently the ignitor will not glow. Some professionals say that if one of these sensors fail, both... Read more

Viewed the video before I purchased the part. Received the part and put it in. Everything went as planned. Read more

• Won't start
• No heat or not enough heat

Did some dryer repair research (dryer not heating) on the internet. Bought an ohm meter, opened up the dryer and tested the cut-off-T, high limit thermostat, dryer igniter, flame sensor, cycling thermostat for continuity. The igniter was bad, the other parts tested ok. Went online to AppliancePartsPros.com searched for a new igniter for my specific dryer model, found the right replacement igniter and watched the video on how to replace the igniter. Because my dryer is old (15+ years) and I... Read more