Maytag Parts

• Little to no heat when broiling
• Element will not heat

Found a real cool Youtube video by AppliancePartsPro.com. I watched it and learned how easy it was to unhook and replace the part with proper care and precautions. It even included tips on critical steps so the wires won't slip back inside the hole and save you from hours of possible mistake. Then I ordered the part. It came the day after, then I replaced the part, meaning, I DID THE WORK! (My wife was so impressed- lol) Easy as pie... but we made and had a much nicer roast the day after.... Read more

Started my Maytag dryer (model LDE8200ACW) with a large load early Saturday morning and immediately heard a noticeable thumping noise as the drum turned. Opened the door and checked to make sure some of the laundry hadn’t wadded up and was causing the thumping. Restarted it but the thumping was still present. Did a google search for obvious possible causes for the symptoms but the only suggestion that made sense was to check and make sure the dryer wasn’t rocking on its feet. Checked and found... Read more

• Too hot
• No heat or not enough heat
• Shuts off too soon
• Takes too long to dry

This Maytag dryer was bought in 1985 if memory serves. It has worked hard with few repairs done by yours truly over the years. Thanks to the engineering and excellent design by Maytag staff, removing parts are relatively easy. Once I opened the unit, I found it to be full of lint. I cleaned the entire inside and the vent pipe duct work. I found the blower wheel assembly worn. Though it was not cause of my problem, I decided to change it along with the igniter, heater relay and the fan belt. I... Read more

In order to get the bulb screw base out of the socket I had to remove the bottom metal panel and remove the the bulb base. Once I removed the socket, I noticed that the one of the electrical solderless connectors was corroded and burned. I replaced the connector, socket, and bulb. Works great now. Read more

I read through the issues related to my problems. I purchased both parts so if one was fixed then the other still needed to be fixed I would have the part. I watched both videos for replacing the parts which made things so much easier. I will say prying in the front clips was the biggest issue out of the whole repair. I repaired the suspension issue by replacing the 4 rods. The very last rod that I replaced was indeed bent. I closed the top and ran one load and then the lid lock issues... Read more

I first thought it was the auger in the ice container so I changed it and it was not the problem. I then talked to ApplianceParts customer service that it might be the yoke on the motor that turned the auger or even the motor itself even though it worked. I ordered the parts, the yoke was supposed to be able to be changed by itself but mind would not come off the motor shaft so I had to cut it off just to remove it from the unit so I had to change the motor anyway because of this. So I advise... Read more

We turned off the circuit breaker. We then removed the light cover and then the control panel. We disconnected the Keyboard, Utah, plugged in the new one and turned the breaker on to see if everything worked. We realized that we did not need a new jazz board so that is being returned. The old Keyboard was removed, the new one attached and all the parts were put back. The frig works fine now at the recommended settings of zero and 38F. Read more

I referenced the repair video. Very straightforward and easy. Only need 3 tools: 1/4 and 5/16 nut drivers and Philips head screwdriver. About 15 minute job. Surprising how much lint and dust build up inside the chassis, was able to clean that out too. Read more

The ridges inside the agitator base were stripped. Installed a new base - after a good cleaning of build-up on the spindle. Works like new! Read more

New door seal did the trick. Read more

First, I watched your VERY HELPFUL videos showing exactly how to remove and assemble the parts. I removed the salvageable parts from the old shelf frame and reassembled it. Read more

Used U-Tube diagnostic clips to diagnose that most likely problem was a worn Evaporator Fan Motor which is located in the freezer back wall, located in the top third of the unit. I removed 6 hex head screws from the freezer's interior back panel that covers the evaporator coils. The cover is located in the lower 2/3s of the back wall. Removed all shelving. Also removed screws that held in shelf supports on one side of the freezer wall. I then removed the back panel. You may need to... Read more

So this is a poor design in the first case. Not having a center support in the back almost guarantees a failure there eventually. I kludged together a support in my original more than a year ago, but finally the part broke too bad to limp along with anymore. This is the part I needed. That being said, be very attentive about the fact that it's not the entire shelf assembly. There is a metal support across the front of the frame that is not included. The trim above the drawers, and the... Read more

Removed old broken grill, uses only 2 screws on top and 3 tabs on bottom to be installed. Was careful not over tighten top screws as the plastic tabs on top that have the holes for the 2 screws can be broken if fastened too tightly. Took about 5 minutes to complete. Read more

Replaced with new switch Read more

After checking other reviews, we decided it was best to replace the interlocks, cam and all three switches. You're going to need a phillips screwdriver, star driver, small screwdriver and needle nose pliers. You need to remove the ONE Phillips screw above the control panel inside the vent. The contol panel is on hinges that you can slide up and towards you. Using caution remove the wires noting how they're connected. Pinch the top of the white connectors and wiggle them free. We couldn't get... Read more