Kenmore / Sears Parts

Watched video. Took dryer apart to get to heating element and sensors. In process found alot of lint had escaped into inner dryer and had a thick coating over heating element. I cleaned out most lint and pulled apart lint trap on front and cleaned out as much accumulated lint as possible. I then removed the heating element (very simple, three screws in a support bracket) and found it was broke in one spot.(wire - element severed). I believe the heavy lint build up on elements caused lint to... Read more

I ordered the part I was sure I needed through the Appliance Pro website. I was surprised the part arrived in just two days. FIRST UNPLUG THE OVEN.. I removed the baking racks then two screws holding the plate over the element. I then removed three screws holding the old element in place, then gently wiggle/pull the element free from the electrical connections in the back of the oven. (Note: You cannot see the connections at this point. You'll need to remove the terminal block cover on the... Read more

Our Maytag top load washer developed a bad slam during the spin cycle. Bad enough to shake the whole washing machine and make it move across the floor, sounded like it was going to destroy itself you could hear this thing in the furthest room in the house mind you it is on the opposite end of the house in the basement. For a while, you could do certain things to stop the issue or improve it, as you would expect that stopped working. I made sure the washing machine was level which I had to... Read more

First, I did a search based on the problem I had with my model of dryer. The model number was on the door frame and was visible when I opened the dryer door. The problem was, when I pressed the button to start a dryer cycle, I heard a clicking noise and the indicator text changed to "Drying", but I could not hear or see the dryer drum turning. The search led me to a page that indicated my problem was usually one of 3 common causes. 1. Faulty door switch 2. Broken Drum drive belt 3. burned out... Read more

• Little to no heat when broiling
• Little to no heat when baking
• Gas igniter glows, but will not light
• Won't start

If the oven burner would not light but the broiler would this indicated that the safety valve is OK. Problem had to be with the igniter. Removed the bottom panel in the oven and restarted the oven. The igniter would not glow at all. It should be brilliant red. This is where the problem came in. I could not find the location of the model on the Kenmore range anywhere you would normally look - the back, the wiring envelope, the oven door jamb etc. Also the igniter cannot be removed from... Read more

• Timer will not advance
• No heat or not enough heat
• Too hot
• Doesn't shut off

After 22 years my Kenmore (Whirlpool) dryer stopped getting hot. So I went ahead and reviewed the videos and figured I could repair it myself. It should be noted that the only part that failed the Ohm test was the thermal fuse. However, I figured that since I have it apart, I might as well go ahead and replace the heating element and the cycling thermostat. Here is a rundown of what I did and how long it took: • Taking the back off and vacuum <1 minute • Finding the components (from the... Read more

• Will not agitate
• Spins slowly

I had previously replaced the pump about 1 year ago. That was not the problem. Still leaked the same way - intermittently, but always in the center of the washer onto the floor. None of the hoses were leaking - no evidence of corrosion or water mineral residue at any of the hose fittings. So, it must have been something else. I studied the parts diagram for the washer tub assembly and concluded the source of the leak almost had to be the outer tub's Centerpost Gasket. It was really the... Read more

I bought the new arm assembly because after a few times of going in through the front of the machine and reaching in the back under the drum I could get to the pulley, so I took it off of the arm and lubed it and then replaced it back inside, put the belt back on and it was good for a week or so , then started squeaking again. So after doing this about 6 times I got the impression that is was the wheel and shaft on the arm were worn out causing the wheel to wobble and wear the arm. I then... Read more

• Doesn't shut off
• Won't start
• Will not tumble

I realized my load of laundry was still wet after a normal drying cycle. My first action was to turn the dryer on (2010 gas Maytag centennial) and open the front port to look at the ignitor coil. It never turned orange so I knew there must be a problem with the primary circuit. I shut off the dryer, disconnected the power, pulled it away from the wall, shutoff the gas, and removed the back panel. I then disconnected the wires for the thermal fuse and checked its resistance with a multimeter.... Read more

• Not drying dishes properly
• Not cleaning dishes properly

My Whirlpool dishwasher (wdf520padm3) started leaving food on dishes and not drying dishes as well as it used to, even when I ran the 'high temp' and 'heavy' cleaning options. This started happening after about 3 years of operation. To try to diagnose the issue, I started the diagnostics cycle (see below for instructions on how to do this). However, the 'Clean' LED is also not working on my dishwasher, so I was unable to read the error code after the service cycle finished. I decided to... Read more

• Pumps but will not spin
• Will not agitate
• Burning smell
• Touchpad does not respond

My whirlpool washer was no longer spinning, so my first stop was YouTube where I found the video from AppliancePartsPros showing how to replace the motor coupling. In addition to the replacement guide, Matt also shows you how to diagnose the problem by looking for rubber shavings under the washer. Seeing the rubber shavings under the washer, combined with the fact that the washer still drained meant that the motor was still working, so something else in the drive train was bad. I took the... Read more

Purchased and replaced Read more

• Leaking

The dishwasher is 4 years old, so I figured since it was leaking from the bottom, replacing the Tub Gasket PN: AP5690109, Splash Shield Kit PN: AP4338941 , and the bottom Door Seal/Gasket PN: AP5809675 was a good idea; the machine probably has around 1200 cycles in 4 years. There's no telling how much the door had opened and closed!? The bottom Door Seal/Gasket was badly worn, and the entire job took me around 30 minutes which included the detailed cleaning of the mating flanges. Take your... Read more

We cleaned out all ducts carefully and did other basic troubleshooting but it did not help. Began to research the problem on-line and discovered that this dryer has two heating elements. One can fail while the other continues to provide heat - but with a large impact on drying time. Watched youtube videos and how to take apart the dryer to reach the heating coils. Tested the heating elements for continuity with tester and the outer loop had no continuity indicating it was broken somewhere. ... Read more

My discharge would not empty after a wash cycle and I always had gross gray water left in the bottom approx 3" deep? After doing the obvious things of checking the simp for garbage, and checking that the discharge hose wasn't blocked, I removed my discharge pump ( not too hard to do) and tested. My pump which did run and turn the impeller. However, the pump evidently had weakened with time and weakened and could no longer pump the waste water up hill to the "T" connection under the sink. A... Read more

This door gasket presses into slot around door pull off old and press in new a five minute repair Read more