Maytag Switch

Two screws remove the top. Unplug the wires to the old relay, give it a quarter turn and it's out. A five minute procedure. What took five hours was replacing the dryer duct work that I discovered was mostly crushed on its way from the laundry room, through a couple of walls to the exterior. Read more

Replaced the motor with a direct replacement part. The wiring was not the same because the switch on the motor was different. The instructions that came with the motor were enough for me to figure out what to do. Read more

Replaced two switches that controlled two front burners. One controlled three different burner sizes options in one burner. The other was the speed burner, basically three different burner options in one burner. Read more

I replaced the cycle switch, fixing the lack of heat. The timer switch replacement fixed the auto cool down. I watched a cycle switch replacement on Youtube, demonstrating removal of the top console, which answered the only question I had about the repair. The timer switch was a hundred bucks. The only thing to be said about that is that it was a lot cheaper than a repairman or replacing the dryer. Read more

You have to take the knob off the broken part, then buy the new switch element and fix it. To do this you turn the power off, take out 6 fasteners to release the front panel of the stove and replace the switch element. Then put it all back together. Very simple. But if the knob was designed better it would not have broken in the first place. It looks nice, but this is the third time I have had to fix one. Read more

Ordered the freezer door switch and the light. Replaced the freezer door switch and the light and everything is back to normal. Replaced both in less than 15 min with no problems. Read more

Replaced the Infinite Switch. Simple fix using only a screwdriver. Read more

• Won't start

I was searching the web for solutions and came across two folks who had similar trouble code. One fixed his by removing the pump strainer from the pump to find coins blocking water flow, thus the analog water pressure sensor provided a failure response. My issue was solved by following the other hints I got. I ordered a new sensor (switch). It was expensive for what it is, but the washer will not run correctly without it! The part arrived in a very timely manner, and it was the right part.... Read more

Replaced dual element switch. Fixed the problem. All is good Read more

I replaced the assembly behind the water level knob. I watched the video on appliancepartspros.com before starting, and then watched it again in short portions while going thru the repair process. Read more

Replaced two switches that controlled two front burners. One controlled three different burner sizes options in one burner. The other was the speed burner, basically three different burner options in one burner. Read more

So I ordered the burner and Ithe switch because I wasn't sure what part was defective. I pulled the oven out and I removed the 6 1/4 inch screws on each side of the glass top as well as the 2 Phillips head screws on the back, removing the 2 1/4 screws on the shield on the back gIves you easier access to them, then lifted the glass top up on the front to access the switch and burners. Make sure you turn the power off before beginning this process. When lifted up the wires connected to the... Read more

Replaced the burner Infinite switches for the burners having the issue. Here are the latest part numbers for this model Maytag. Left rear (LR) and right rear (RR) burners are both 6" and use the same switch. Part # WP3149404. Left front (LF) is an 11 1/2" burner Part# W10167742. The right front (RF) burner is a double burner 6" center and 9 1/2" outside burner Part #WPW10149355. Very simple repair. Unplug the stove, remove the rear panel, remove the switch knob, remove the 2 switch screws,... Read more

• Won't start

First, it was going to cost $95 for an appliance guy just to look at it! I figured there would be an upcharge on the parts + labor on top of the $95, so I took a chance & decided my husband & I could fix it cheaper; we were right, but it was a 3 week process (luckily, we have another microwave in the basement we were able to use in the meantime). I googled the microwave model #, then price checked the same item I thought we needed; printed off the diagrams of the various microwave "systems" &... Read more

• No hot or cold water

I tested the Atc. mid level switch, with my multi tester and found it was not sending enough current to the cold water inlet valve, so it would not open and let cold water in. I replaced the switch, (it was a snap) literally it snapped in place. replace the front face and turned the water back on and plugged in the washer, and turned it on. It worked perfect and has been since. good and easy repair even for a novice like me.. Read more

I had removed three screws behind the control board cover of the washer, to access the old lid switch. I checked the continuety of the of the switch with a multimeter and it obviously failed the the test by displaying infinity of <1, rather than being 0. I removed the old switch with a flathead screw driver, I tested the new one and installed it in no time. Problem solved!!! Read more