Range / Cooktop / Oven Switch

First and foremost I UNPLUGGED THE OVEN!. I'll pass on the early morning SHOCK THERAPY! Second, I unscrewed aluminum protection plate from back of oven. Next, I unplugged the two connections behind the oven switch. Then I removed the plastic switch from the front and unscrewed the two screws that secured the oven switch to the oven. Once you've completed all these steps you take your new oven switch and do everything again but in reverse order. Hope this was informative, direct, and that your... Read more

Removed control panel and replaced broken switch. Much easier then expected. Read more

Replaced the control that I think was bad from the purchase of the stove new as the burner didn’t throttle as is does now. Read more

The parts are under the stovetop and the knobs are attached to them. We bought the correct ones from AppliancePartsPros, these were the correct ones. Seems we have an oddball stovetop. It's a GE drop in stove. The parts were easy to change. It was a simple matter of putting the wires on the new switch in the same place there were on the switch. I took phone pics of the wire locations before I took them off and only did one switch at a time. Turn the power off at the breaker panel first of... Read more

Ordered an igniter switch for $21.95. (the left front handle was turned the wrong although clearly marked: Off, Lite, X-high, high, med, low, simmer. Guess some folks cannot read and deduce.) When we returned from out of town to relieve the sitting family members I noticed the left front burner handle was sitting at 11 o'clock instead of true OFF at 12, straight up and down. When I would correct the position the ignitor would begin until I once again would back it up until the light would go... Read more

Replaced the switch took a total of about five minutes. I pulled the stove out and turned the breaker off so I only had to pull it out enough to get a 1/4 " nut driver in behind it. Removed three screws and the back cover came off. I pushed the switch threw from the back and switched over the two wires then reversed the process. Completely easy if you can use a screw driver your crazy not to replace it yourself Read more

Using the video on your site I was able to make the repair. It was a pretty straight forward repair. Thanks for having the diagram on your site for helping me find the right part. Read more

I had one element that would operate wide open when turned on the low setting. It needed the switch replaced. Since I was replacing other elements I went ahead replaced them all, adding new drip pans and wiring kits to each new element. Once I replaced everything I was still having issues with the element that had the switch replaced. After further investigation my AC voltage readings were not correct at this element. I traced the problem back to the Molex connector feeding voltage to the... Read more

Just a simple install my maintenance man just put it in with no problems. Read more

I was able to clean the Oven Temp Sensor with 99% alcohol. Then replaced All switches (after breaker was isolated). Put it all back the way I found it. Turned on breaker. Tested all functions and had no reports of Fan Code re-appearing since. Read more

I replaced the switch/wire harness that connects to the gas valves. Read more

Remove front panel and replaced. Received parts fast. Read more

I called a rpair service. The men came to the house, torn apart the stove top and advised Replacement of the wire harness. The trip charge of $100 would be deducted from a repair bill of $350, thus they needed an additional $150 for parts and $100 for labor after paying the trip charge. I bought the harness for $60, and the star bits I needed for my drill for $10. My son and I installed the new harness in about 30 minutes, which included a thorough cleanup, saving us $180. Read more

• Element will not heat

This cooktop has a dual element with an inner burner surrounded by an outer burner. The switch controls either the inner burner alone or both. The switch failed in that it would not operate the inner burner by itself, both burners would come on and only on high. On 8/14/2014 I replaced the failed dual element switch as follows: • Turned power off to cooktop. • Removed unit from cabinet. • Removed metal edging and glass top. • Removed screws holding switch panel access underside. • Removed old... Read more

I replaced both the large single element and the large dual element control switches. It appears the resistors were burning out. Problem seems to be fixed. Will know later when I do some simmering. Read more