Ge WB24X10091 Cooktop Igniter Switch OEM Part

Ordered an igniter switch for $21.95. (the left front handle was turned the wrong although clearly marked: Off, Lite, X-high, high, med, low, simmer. Guess some folks cannot read and deduce.) When we returned from out of town to relieve the sitting family members I noticed the left front burner handle was sitting at 11 o'clock instead of true OFF at 12, straight up and down. When I would correct the position the ignitor would begin until I once again would back it up until the light would go off and clicking stopped. Initial thought was awesome! This will cost me a few Ben FrankLins since any GE Monogram service call is for only the "elite service people which make them 10 times as expensive). So I did call the 800 number and true to form the girl tried to set me up an appointment but was not allowed to tell me how much the service call would begin at. BAD Sign!! She assured me the GE Mon. service guys were only the finest AE certified and worth the money. I told her their credentials did not impress me, since I have no certifications except a BS in BioChemistry, and as a 53y/o female, mom of two wife o one, am our home's plumber, electrician, pool repair girl, gate repair, sprinkler repair gal and overall property manager who is fearless. My cert is in viewing life as a fun learning puzzle and I LOVE to LEARN and especially WIN at my projects!! She didn't much care for my sarcasm and we said our good byes. I begin to research monogram parts and issues and finally called Appliance Parts Pros. I told them I had taken the knob and small plate off and inserted a needle nose to manipulate the white igniter switch and by moving it slightly would get it to fire. I had also determined there are 4 screws on the from panel of the stove. They are(were!) the 5 point type..... top two came out easy.... Bottom two began to strip, so I knew I would be forced to tap them out. I described the whole thing to the APP.com tech and he agreed it sounded like the igniter switch. to my joy and shock it was only a $22 part!! I had him price the screws and they were $41!!! Ridiculous right? I told him I would make a quick trip to Lowe's and use their screw thread matcher and found my screws to be 8/32 ¾ in. They only had ½ and 1" so I purchased a package of 10 - 1" screws, since there was room behind for the extra length. They were flat Phillip's head screws for $1.99! I came home and ordered the igniter from APP.COM and got it in two days. Purchased a 32nd drill tap. Bottom left was stubborn but came out. Bottom right was a beeeoch, and I could never get a bite. So I ground the head carefully to where it was thin enough to bend in with a small sharp screw driver. I folded it in from two or three sides, one completely, thinking If I could lift the front panel off over the head, I could grab the screw with channel locks. To my luck and surprise, I couldn't remove the panel, so tried the tap again and due to my 'fold in', it grabbed! Victory for the Girl Team!!! Handles off front panel opened (power was OFF at breaker). Front panel does not completely come off, due to wires attached to the red lights that indicate when a knob is on. I had adequate room to get to my igniter. There is a small and I mean very small cotter like pin that holds the igniter back and in place, this had to be carefully removed and is a piece vital to final success, so careful to not let it spring!!! You might never find it. So as not to loose it I got clear tape, stuck it too that and put it in a safe place! Slid red connector off top corner of the old igniter, inserted into new igniter. Removed black connector from bottom and inserted in new one, slid old igniter off the shaft and on with he new. Had to tighten the cotter (because it stretched, rather bent upon removal) and work it back on by catching it on one side and wrapping it around until it clicked into its groove with needle nose. Before putting all back together turned back on electricity and moment of truth spelled VICTORY all for less than $25 and a little logical thinking......And all without an AE certification. Guess I missed my calling! Hope another DYI'er finds this helpful!!

Unplugged the power cord. Removed the knobs and screws that held the narrow panel behind the knobs to the stove top. The ingniters are attached to the same post the control knobs are pushed on to. Removed the small retaining clip which is directly in front of the igniter on the post with a tiny screwdriver. Be careful not to let it get away from you as it is easy to loose and can fall into the inner workings of the stove making it nearly impossible or impossible to recover. Remove the faulty igniter switch. (This is determined by which burner was sparking on its own schedule). The wires will pull off the switch. If you didn't unplug the stove or otherwise disconnect the electrical power and you touch any bare part of the wire plug you will be reminded what 110 volts feels like. Install the new igniter switch and push the wires on to the new switch. Install the tiny clip in the grove on the post. This is where it is easy to loose the little clip so be careful. Make sure the clip is in the grooves on the post. Turn the electrical power on and make sure the igniter is working properly. Install the front cover and knobs. I have replaced 4 of these switches in a 10 year period. I keep an extra on hand tucked behind the panel for easy rapid repair when needed as once the switch starts sparking the only way to stop it is to cut power to the stove or the individual switch which requires the panel to be removed. If all goes well its a 20 minute job. If the little clip gets away from you its a 30+ minute job.

I noticed that one burner stopped all the clicking when the burner was on. While all other burners still caused the clicking while on. I ordered the part I needed, the igniter switch at 12 O'clock. And installed it. Took just a minute. And it worked. No more sport. Stove works great. Thanks to APPro.

Replaced the part

Purchased a new igniter switch and it was a quick and easy swap. Rubber feet easy as well. The spring replacement took a little time (other posts spoke of similar issue). I cut then filed a notch into the middle of a flat blade screw driver. I hooked the spring to the arm hinge of the door. Slipped the other end of the spring on the notch and was then able to extend it toward the vertical post that held it in place