Kitchenaid Switch

Removed control panel and replaced broken switch. Much easier then expected. Read more

Replaced the control that I think was bad from the purchase of the stove new as the burner didn’t throttle as is does now. Read more

Every time I tried to start our dryer, the "Sensing Light" came on, I heard a little "click," and the dryer would not start. According to the very helpful Appliance Parts Pros. videos, I was able to dismantle, diagnose a few components, and discover the broken part. In this case, it was a Broken Belt Switch. I ordered the part, we went on vacation for a week, and when we returned home the part was at our residence. The next day, I installed the part and all is good now. I am nearly 70 years... Read more

• Will not stop filling with water
• Will not fill with water

Replaced the water-level switch and hose. Washer works again, no overflowing since! Read more

I was able to clean the Oven Temp Sensor with 99% alcohol. Then replaced All switches (after breaker was isolated). Put it all back the way I found it. Turned on breaker. Tested all functions and had no reports of Fan Code re-appearing since. Read more

I called a rpair service. The men came to the house, torn apart the stove top and advised Replacement of the wire harness. The trip charge of $100 would be deducted from a repair bill of $350, thus they needed an additional $150 for parts and $100 for labor after paying the trip charge. I bought the harness for $60, and the star bits I needed for my drill for $10. My son and I installed the new harness in about 30 minutes, which included a thorough cleanup, saving us $180. Read more

• Element will not heat

This cooktop has a dual element with an inner burner surrounded by an outer burner. The switch controls either the inner burner alone or both. The switch failed in that it would not operate the inner burner by itself, both burners would come on and only on high. On 8/14/2014 I replaced the failed dual element switch as follows: • Turned power off to cooktop. • Removed unit from cabinet. • Removed metal edging and glass top. • Removed screws holding switch panel access underside. • Removed old... Read more

Was set to pull the trigger on a new washer since this one was 10+ years old. Broke a $25 lid switch fumbling to get the washer open before I found the appliancepros video library. Once I got things apart the right way I was able to diagnose the problem in 5 minutes. Identified the $10 part needed. Got the $10 coupling and the $25 switch and had the washer working like new in 20 minutes. I'm pretty proud of myself.. not going to tell anyone about the $25 switch. Read more

Replaced float switch and also replaced intake valve. Worked like a charm and the process was as easy as the YouTube video I followed made it seem. Read more

Replace switch Read more

• Light not working

We actually were able to determine that one of the freezer switches was bad and taped it down for about 3 days. The beeping stopped. Our fridge has two freezer switches and one fridge side switch. I ordered all three from these guys. They were cheaper than Whirlpool by about $20 for parts and about $15 for shipping. The part numbers had superseded too many times to count, usually that doesn't matter but in this case it did. The new parts were just slightly bigger than the old parts AND... Read more

I replaced the upper switch that contacts the door in a closed position and more important the start switch contacted by lifting the start pedal. Read more

• Not dispensing water

I replaced the switch which was bad and also replaced the water inlet valve. Read more

Had to replace both switches. The hard part was getting the control panel off to get access. Only a few screws but even after getting them out, really struggled getting it off. After getting off, discovered that you need to get it lifted up before pulling it off. Read more

Replaced the Spark Module and the Wire Harness. Works like new. Read more