Washer Parts

I watched the video that was shown on this website to slide the top back, remove the control panel, remove the front panel of the washer, remove the old gasket (the two tension springs are easy to get off, not as easy to replace), cleaned out years of gunk and soap that had built up behind the gasket for 10 years as well as under the rollers in the drum (each roller has a screw, remove it, slide the roller assembly forward and lift up to take off the rollers, and the roller can be broken down... Read more

I opened the cover panel of the control board. I visually checked for burns on the board and verified all connectors were firmly seated. I opened the bottom of the unit, and I saw the service manual in a zip-lock bag. From this manual, I verified that the drain pump resistance is good, the start capacitor is good, and the lid switch is good. I entered diagnostic service mode. Persistent alarms are 4 and 25.Error 4 means Reset Monitor, while Error 25 means Pressure Sensor Dropout. I... Read more

I pulled off the retaining clip with pliers then removed the old knob and timer dial. I replaced all the parts with the new ones and used pliers to reinstall the clip. The teeth on the new knob engage to select the cycle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQwLtRcHx9k Read more

• Leaking

I had previously replaced the pump about 1 year ago. That was not the problem. Still leaked the same way - intermittently, but always in the center of the washer onto the floor. None of the hoses were leaking - no evidence of corrosion or water mineral residue at any of the hose fittings. So, it must have been something else. I studied the parts diagram for the washer tub assembly and concluded the source of the leak almost had to be the outer tub's Centerpost Gasket. It was really the... Read more

• Noisy

After ignoring for a couple of years that the bearings were bad on our Whirlpool Cabrio washer and just closing the door to the laundry room, it started slinging grease underneath during the spin cycle. Knowing that the cost to call out a repairman would be close to the cost of a new washer, I decided that it would be a nice Saturday project after reviewing AppliancePartsPros’ repair video. The bearing & tub seal kit and bearing installation tool arrived in two days. I’ve done a lot of... Read more

I put this repair off for a long time because I knew the machine would have to be completely torn down to fix it. The repair videos give you the impression that this condition is caused by a bad 'Tub Bearing' which takes a long time to replace but only costs about $15. Don't be lulled into thinking you can fix this for $15. The 'Tub Bearing' is really only a bushing. The one I removed from my washer looked fine but I replaced it anyways. The real problem here is GE's poor design which allows a... Read more

• Shakes and moves

I called a repair guy who came out to specifically replace the suspension rods because I read that if you push down on the tub and it bounces around, then the rods have worn out. After running the diagnostics, the repair guy tried to tell me it was because the lid was not locking correctly! After expressing concern that this makes no sense, he continued taking things apart and noticed the agitator rollers were all broken and told me this is probably causing the tub to be unbalanced. I... Read more

• Won't start
• Lid or door won't close
• Door latch failure
• Will not agitate

Superfast parts delivery. Got packages by the second day. Videos were extremely helpful and well done; we couldn't have done without them although we came across slight differences in our machine and found workarounds. Our machine did not drain the water so I drained the water manually via drain tube at bottom of the machine and checked the filter for blockage. All clear so I read articles on the internet and watched videos and took a chance on replacing the drain pump and circulating motor... Read more

• Shakes and moves

My washing machine was making a loud thumping sound and bouncing around a bit. Research suggested that it could be bearings and/or the spider shaft assembly. After watching the instruction videos to replace the spider or bearings, I seen you need to replace both the shaft seal and tub gasket to get to the spider and bearings. So I ordered both and waited for them to arrive. Plan was to disassemble the washer, determine what was needed, order the additional parts needed, and reassemble after the... Read more

Repair went fairly smoothly by following the EXCELLENT how-to video provided. I had only a few issues and suggestions. 1. Because many of the screws and fasteners are of multiple sizes, I would recommend laying them out in a muffin tray or on a paper with labels for where they go back. 2. After removing the weights and prepping to remove the shock absorbers, after the front ones were removed, the tub tilted so far the rear shock absorber separated. The friction pads fell out. It was easy... Read more

Replaced all 4 rod and spring assemblies. Read more

Installed new agitator Read more

Replaced all 4 rod and spring assemblies. Read more

• Will not stop filling with water
• No hot or cold water
• Will not fill with water

Replacing the water inlet valve fixed the problem. For many months we noticed cold water was just dribbling into the washer during the rinse cycle, and "warm" washes were hot not warm. It seemed like the cold water wasn't able to enter the machine. Then one day the cycle just stopped when it reached "rinse" and wouldn't go any further. I first tried solving it by cleaning the filter where the cold water hose enters the machine at the back. It was coated in sediment (the water comes from a... Read more

Repair went fairly smoothly by following the EXCELLENT how-to video provided. I had only a few issues and suggestions. 1. Because many of the screws and fasteners are of multiple sizes, I would recommend laying them out in a muffin tray or on a paper with labels for where they go back. 2. After removing the weights and prepping to remove the shock absorbers, after the front ones were removed, the tub tilted so far the rear shock absorber separated. The friction pads fell out. It was easy... Read more

GE Washer m/n GTW460ASJ6WW would allow other fill levels, but when set to "super" it would never stop filling. Checked water inlet valve (by initiating a fill and unplugging the unit) to see if the inlet valve was sticking open, that was not the issue. Decided to replace the board even though it is a significant fraction of the cost of a new washer. Local appliance stores didn't have the board but APP did, and of course, they are open 24/7 while my local part stores have decided the weekend is... Read more