Fuse Or Sensor

I read on line about other such ovens doing the same thing mine was doing, absolutely nothing! I even read stories of a major retailer telling customers to throw the microwave away. There's nothing you can do to fix it. After replacing a simple fuse that I ordered from you, the Advantium is as good as new. It took a grand total of 5 minutes to make the repair. The shipping cost more than the part, but it was all very worthwhile. Read more

I tried to buy a new refigerator, but strangely none of the major stores had anything I wanted in stock. The earliest delivery date for a new unit was over a month away. At that I decided to try and keep this one running. I did online research into common refigerator problems. I found the cooling coils in the freezer were covered in a block of ice and frost. The refigerator was not going through a defrost cycle. With a hair dryer I thawed out the coils. The refigerator worked fine for... Read more

• No heat or not enough heat

Changed out high limit thernasstat Read more

Replaced control board. Did not need Control Thermistor in my case, but I'm keeping it as backup. Got the Drum Belt just in case it breaks on me since the dryer is aging. To replace control board: Disconnect power and pull dryer away from wall. Take 2 black screws on the back off to remove the top lid. Remove 2 screws on top that hold the control interface on. Remove 2 screws on the bottom backside of the control. Pull out control panel and pull off terminal connections and push to remove... Read more

First, don't self clean your oven before the holidays. In fact, read up on what damage the self cleaning feature can do to your oven. How did I fix it, I went on line and saw the comments of appliancepartspros.com. I figured out that it was the thermal fuse that probably went wrong since my oven just went lights out after the cleaning. My oven is a Kitchenaid model # KEBS179BSSOO. The part for this model is AP6022801 or WPW10545255. I spoke with technical support but I still had questions. I... Read more

• Too hot
• No heat or not enough heat
• Shuts off too soon
• Takes too long to dry

This Maytag dryer was bought in 1985 if memory serves. It has worked hard with few repairs done by yours truly over the years. Thanks to the engineering and excellent design by Maytag staff, removing parts are relatively easy. Once I opened the unit, I found it to be full of lint. I cleaned the entire inside and the vent pipe duct work. I found the blower wheel assembly worn. Though it was not cause of my problem, I decided to change it along with the igniter, heater relay and the fan belt. I... Read more

After ordering, and receiving a new Temp Sensor, I simply replaced the sensor, which was an extremely easy job, and completely resolved my problem. Read more

I tried to buy a new refigerator, but strangely none of the major stores had anything I wanted in stock. The earliest delivery date for a new unit was over a month away. At that I decided to try and keep this one running. I did online research into common refigerator problems. I found the cooling coils in the freezer were covered in a block of ice and frost. The refigerator was not going through a defrost cycle. With a hair dryer I thawed out the coils. The refigerator worked fine for... Read more

• Too hot

The heating element had a break in the heater coils, so I replaced it with a new one from Appliance Parts Pros. I also replaced the thermal fusible link and thermostat switch because they were so cheap it just made sense to go ahead and do it while I was in there. I also cleaned every nook & cranny in the dryer, then cleaned out the vent piping- which was about 100% clogged. The video's of how to tear down a dryer were indispensable to this repair - along with APP's always having the right... Read more

• Door won't open after self cleaning cycle
• Element will not heat
• Little to no heat when baking
• Won't start

This is for the Whirlpool in-wall double oven GBD307PDS10. No power and the door locked after the shutdown before the self-cleaning cycle was over. I watched some video and this is a known issue the fuses blow during self-cleaning. I opened the door with a 90-degree hook, an easy task. Took doors off (watch video from others), unscrewed from the wall, and made a very small platform. and took the oven out (need two people and take the doors off first. The doors are heavy and you won't lift the... Read more

Replaced exhaust thermal cutoff switch. Sears wanted to charge for a service visit + parts and labor. $17 part, $6 shipping and I received the part the following day. Repair complete in less than an hour at a fraction of the cost. Thanks appliance pros. Read more

Found open thermal fuse. While it was apart, cleaned out all the lent and lubed drum bearing. Read more

I found a few videos on YouTube about other dryers that gave me enough information to figure out my own. I was able to pull out the heater element and replace it with a new one that arrived the day after I purchased it. I also replaced the thermal fuse and thermostat. Read more

The actual replacement part number for my oven was WB21X5301, which costs $84.26, but this part actually fits perfectly (same hole sizes and position, same probe length, same resistance), and is less than 1/4 the price. Just removed the old probed and installed the new one. Read more

• Won't start
• Element will not heat
• Little to no heat when baking

This is for the Whirlpool in-wall double oven GBD307PDS10. No power and the door locked after the shutdown before the self-cleaning cycle was over. I watched some video and this is a known issue the fuses blow during self-cleaning. I opened the door with a 90-degree hook, an easy task. Took doors off (watch video from others), unscrewed from the wall, and made a very small platform. and took the oven out (need two people and take the doors off first. The doors are heavy and you won't lift the... Read more

Changed parts Read more