Fuse Or Sensor

• Too hot

I replaced the main parts for the dryer cycle system Read more

Purchased a new sensor from AppliancePartsPros.com. Installed new part - Problem fixed. Read more

The thermal cutoff went bad because of lint being trapped in dryer vent and blocked air-flow from dryer. Removed accumilation of lint and installed new thermal -cutoff and thermostat and dryer now works great. Read more

We initially called a repair company who immediately diagnosed the fan, without opening up anything. They quoted $550 to repair. $159 of that was the fan part. Plus they told me the parts come from overseas and will take 2 week to arrive. I researched the model number and can part and found exactly what I was looking for on your site. Plus there were diagrams and forum discussions that boosted my confidence on repairing ourself. Using your parts diagrams and our manual information, we pulled... Read more

Checked vent first to see if there was a blockage. Removed top, front and drum of dryer. Replaced all sensors including flame detection and gas valve coils. Re-assembled and tested. Dryer was now heating Read more

I replaced the thermostat. The bearing on the motor was getting loose, so I changed the motor to. The repair took about 2 hours. There are some good re[air videos on the parts web site. Read more

This is a 25 year old built-in over-the-range appliance. Only previous problem was 1 failed door switch (of 3 total), replaced 2 years ago. First checked all 3 door switches with continuity tester, all ok. Had advice to check thermostat switches, which were all supposedly NC (normally closed), used same tester. Found one thermo that was open, ordered and installed replacement, but oven still dead. Used heat gun to warm the open thermo (while not installed) and using tester again, found that... Read more

• Door won't open after self cleaning cycle

Based on information found at AppliancePartsPros, I determined that the it was most likely the thermostat (thermal fuse). I removed the rear panel and tested the fuse for continuity and it was bad. I used a jumper wire to bypass the fuse and plugged the range back in. The panel turned on and the oven unlocked. I then removed the thermostat and looked up the replacement part and ordered. Read more

Replaced open circuit thermistor at back of unit to restore power to stove. Replaced thermal fuse behind control panel due to high resistance in original one. Stove now operational. Read more

This is for the Whirlpool in-wall double oven GBD307PDS10. No power and the door locked after the shutdown before the self-cleaning cycle was over. I watched some video and this is a known issue the fuses blow during self-cleaning. I opened the door with a 90-degree hook, an easy task. Took doors off (watch video from others), unscrewed from the wall, and made a very small platform. and took the oven out (need two people and take the doors off first. The doors are heavy and you won't lift the... Read more

First I check the breaker for the dryer then I check the power cord and the ohms to the power cord when all this things were in working order I then check the ohms to the fuse to the control panel. The fuse had no ohms so I got a pair on needle nose pliers pulled out the fuse and replace it worked just find after that Read more

Installed a new thermistor tempiture control and it heats up as it should. Tools used was a ohlm meter, 1" stiff puty knife, #2 Philips screw driver, neadle nose pliers,1/4 & 5/16 nut drivers. Read more

I researched the problem and found that not only was the fuse blown but the cause was a bad thermostat. Using the model number AppliancePartsPros.com. sold me the right parts for the right job. Read more

Tested the High Voltage Capacitor which showing no capacitance and no resistance. Replaced it together with the diode and the line fuse no longer blew and the microwave is back in service. Read more

Replaced all sensors, limiters, thermistors, thermostat. Works great now. Read more