Tim for Model Number FFU14F7HBE My inside light stopped working so I replaced the bulb. It worked for a few minutes so I replaced the door switch and it did not work at all. I checked the bulbs and bought new ones. All continuity checked out fine and the bulb socket checked out fine. I have 110 volts at the switch but at the bulb I have 17 volts and it is a factory 130 volt bulb. The new bulb is 120 volt and both bulbs have continuity as the socket has continuity between terminals and posts. Everything check's out. So how does 110Vac change to 17 volts? This freezer light has worked for 8 years now and now the voltage is wrong. Make's no sense as there is nothing in between the bottom door light switch and the top light switch socket. There are only 2 wires.
Answer Hello Tim, This can be an issue with the wiring or the control. The control on this unit is more likely and as a note, when replacing bulbs in this unit you should unplug the unit from the wall outlet first since a power surge caused by the insertion of the bulb can cause damage to the control. Also, check for power to the bulb as well as neutral. To test the neutral, locate a point where you can test 120Vac and use that point for the test reference point instead of ground. Test from there to the wire that should be bringing neutral to the bulb. The test from the 120Vac point to the neutral should read the same as reading to ground. If not, the neutral has been lost. In the wiring configuration of this unit, if neutral has been dropped, the control can still be at fault since neutral is passed through the control as well as the voltage. Read More... Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Thursday, December 13, 2018