Bosch 00188978 Nut OEM Part

First and foremost, don't believe everything you see on Youtube. In order to get to the gas solenoid that feeds the burner you MUST take the entire top off that side of the range. Remove the grates and burner tops. You will see 2x 20mm brass nut, or so it appears, that hold each burner in place on the splash/drip pan. It is not just a nut, it is a venturi that threads down into what is called the jet holder. You may get a socket on it and think you are getting it loose but, more than likely you are spinning the jet holder, which has an aluminum gas line attached to it. The brass venturi has been treated with some kind of plumbers thread dope and if your range is of any age at all, I can promise you the venturi will be seized to the jet holder. I believe this may have been done to prevent any gas vapor from coming up through the threads and leaking outside the venturi. In my humble opinion, this is total OVERKILL. And here's why: the only ways to get the burner base off to then remove the splash pan, you have to get your dremel tool out and grind off the top of the 20mm brass venturi. Don't fool yourself into thinking that because you can spin the sucker with a socket and 1/2" flex handle its coming loose. Think again. If by some act of God the venturi comes loose it should turn fairly easily however, if it turns with abnormal resistance of any kind, you are twisting the gas line into knots. Once I ground the tops of of both venturi the burner bases came right off and that exposed the jet holders which have their own nut that holds them in place. Once you get the jet holders out you can try to unscrew the remaining venturi but, more than likely you will have to replace them too. All in all, you will need two jet holders, two jet holder nuts, two venturi and, while your in there replace the two clips that hold the ignitors to the splash pan. If you have to replace the gas line make sure you call these guys and make sure you order the right one. The catalog only showed three different lines, none of which were the one we(I talked to a rep)decided was correct. I got an email confirmation of my original order and I responded that the gas line I ordered was incorrect and PLEASE look for the right one. It took me about a week to complete the repair. I wasn't about to pay the local appliance repair thief to fix it for me. Trust me, he has a reputation.

Bought a Thermador PRSE48" dual fuel range from Craigslist really cheap because it didn't work. Did a little research and decided to overhaul most of the top (gas) end. For what I paid for it it was worth it and I'd have a good stove with new components. Replaced the griddle thermostat, ignition micro switches, ignition re-igniter box, installed fixing kit with 2 new potentiometers, both solenoids, and gas regulator. Had to replace 2 gas lines, all 4 jets, and one brass nut that were corroded or damaged in removal. Replaced all igniters and clips and main oven door seal. Kept the wiring harness. The only issue was the directions for re-igniter are WRONG. Don't connect wires to the same "number" as directions say, instead connect them in the same "position" as the old one. I connected them to the number as directions say for 4-burner but the ignition won't stop after lighting - it just keeps ticking away. Pulled it apart and put them to the same position (it says to do for a 6-burner) and then it worked correctly. Spent about 2 months cleaning it - it was filthy inside and out. Now it looks great and everything works perfectly. A like-new 48" Thermador for the cost of parts. 90% of the time spent was cleaning. I'm just a DIYer and have never owned a stove like this or overhauled a stove before and it wasn't a bad project.

Had two different repair companies come in to repair my Thermador PRG304US Range. Both explained the the "broken" parts were no longer available making the repair impossible and thus I would have to buy a new range. Ok, but before I shell out $5K to replace the one I had, I needed to answer the questions I had. After twenty minutes of online research and the help of AppliancePros I was able to repair my own range. The techs obviously mis-diagnosed the problem, and not only that the one guy "pretended" that he attempted a repair that he never did. Repair was not overly difficult for someone with a little "handyman" skill and common sense, but was time consuming. Had to remove multiple parts for proper exposure to allow replacement of solenoid. The Venturi Tubes were frozen also adding to the difficulty and time required. DIY repair videos that greatly helped me with the repair: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5O7UV_aQjw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8_rUV0wFyM

Replaced both ignitors. Since I was working on the range I also overhauled the final 2 of the 6 burners on the stove top. Venturi tube and jet nuts were frozen and could not remove drip tray for cleaning and access to ignitor clip. Had to drill out Venturi tubes using a tapered bore bit. Used Dremmel with cutting wheel to remove jet nut. This range has been heavily used since new for 16 years. Works like new, again.

The root cause of the problem was a bad potentiometer. The carbon tracks were worn out, and not providing electrical contact that energizes the gas control solenoid. In order to test the solenoid, I had to disassemble the cooktop, and the nut and "jet holder" were welded together from years of exposure to heat. Disassembling the old parts was difficult, but installing the new ones was easy. Note that the new potentiometer (AP3782975) appears to be a direct replacement for the old one (AP2825521). Thermador PRG304US