How to Troubleshoot & Replace Ge AP3883205 / WB17X10021 Transformer Power

As an FIY, I experienced this problem about 5 years ago and replaced the Digitron (AP3883432) which solved the problem then. This time, I thought since the same symptoms (flickering of the readout and panel shutting down from time to time) that the same part had to be replaced. I ordered and replaced that part but only got a slight improvement in that the panel flickered a little less and shut down less but still had the problems occur. I will say that the readout is much brighter than before so it probably would have had to be changed out eventually anyway. I read through the reviews and noted a response from someone describing similar issues but did some checks and found that the Transformer Power and Power Board needed to be replaced. He mentioned a couple other parts but didn't say why he had changed them out so I elected not to spend the extra $200 on parts I may not need. While I waited for the parts to arrive (took about 10 days to get to Hawaii) I studied the schematics provided on the site and noted that it wasn't going to be too much more work to replace than the digitron. All I needed was a couple of phillips screwdrivers, one short and one long nose. Would recommend the long nose one to be magnetic to help remove and install 2 screws you need to get to through a hole on the top where you have no way to use fingers to help secure. A small flathead screwdriver also helps in prying some of the wiring connectors. First and most important thing to remember which I did was to switch off the breaker switch and make sure no electrical power is going into the oven. I'm not an electrician so I took lots of before shots on my cell phone of the wiring before I disconnected. That way when I put them back, I knew I got them hooked up right. Also, I made sure to secure all the little screws in a plastic bag when I removed them. It's easy to lose them if they fall between the walls of the panels. There will be 9 screws (or maybe 11 can't remember) to remove the front/top readout panel. Once removed, only need to remove the wiring from the connectors. Before I did, I took lots of photos and then carefully removed each one by hand. Might need to use that small flathead screwdriver to help lift some of the wires from the connectors. Once I got the wires removed, I was able to take the panel to my workbench and replace each of the components. Each one required the removal/reinstallation of 4 screws with no problem. Once again, I did take photos before I removed each component and referred back to check I had the connections right once I had it back together. I reversed the entire process for reinstallation. Just made sure that I used that magnetic Philipps screwdriver to reinstall 2 screws on the top. There is no other way you will be able to get those in without it. I know this because I lost 4 screws trying to do it the first time without it. They are somewhere deep down between the panels in a place I'm not ever going. Once everything was together, I turned the breaker switch back on and "presto" "SUCCESS" Just like a brand-new oven. Everything works just fine with no flickering or shut down. This was a fairly easy repair. The key is to be patient and methodical. Don't try to rush or force anything. Keep your screws and tools organized and this should be a breeze for even a newbee. 

No display = no control voltage. I confirmed this with a voltmeter. APP had the transformer and delivered it to my doorstep in 2 days. Quick installation. Problem solved. MUCH better than shelling out $2000 for a replacement oven! 

I purchased this microwave Model#: SCB1001MSS in 2008. It has always worked perfectly until about a year ago. The display started flickering and then would not work at all until I turned off the breaker and then back on again. This started happening more and more often until I just figured I would need to buy a new microwave oven. When I did a search of the problem I was having along with the model # of my microwave, It took me to AppliancePartsPros.com I found out that many other people had the same problem I was having. I am thankful that many people wrote about the parts they needed to fix their problems. Here are the parts I ordered that fixed the problem I had. Power Board WB27X10861 / AP3882298 Pwb (pcb) Asm Sub WB27X10858 / AP3883396 Transformer Power WB17X10021 / AP3883205 I hope this will be of help to others also! The hardest part was lifting the 75 pound microwave out of the built in cabinet it was in. (I had to have a neighbour help me with that). 

I had a flickering display that I had tried to fix by replacing the Digitron part WB27X10856 about a year and a half ago and it did not correct the problem. I got frustrated and gave up on it and just kept using the Express (30 second microwave) feature because that still worked fine despite the hard to read display. It would still allow us to see the time off and on for the most part. I had just retired and so decided to try to fix it correctly one more time. After investigating on this website what might fix the problem, I ordered the transformer power part GE WB17X 10021 for $79.89 and the Pwb(pcb) Asm Sub part for $87.61. I replaced these 2 parts and presto the microwave was like brand new! My wife was thrilled as was I. This project took about 20 minutes to complete. I was pretty familiar with replacing parts on this appliance so it might take you an extra 15-20 minutes. It was well worth the time and money to try and repair this nice appliance. If you’re at all a decent DIY, this is not a hard task. An electric drill (I used an impact driver) will save you a lot of time as there are many screws to remove. 

I saw some reviews that it was either the transformer or the digitron. To simplify the process I decided to replace both since the hard part is taking the unit apart. Upon doing the swap and reinstalling the microwave, the display was much brighter though it was flickering around quite a bit. After about 30 minutes, all this calmed down and all appears to work perfectly now, though still brighter. Apparently the old Digitron had grown dim over the years as well. At this point I would say it was a success! 

GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection oven, manufactured March 2008. Worked great every day for 14 years. Then the display flickered and bounced all over. Replaced the digitron. No joy. The keypad also stopped working and the appliance only hummed when power was restored (no matter how long the circuit breaker was turned off). Then nothing worked at all. Replaced the power board, the two power board sub-assemblies, the relay board, and the transformer (after 14 years, I figured if two or more major electronic parts failed, the others were likely to do so in the near future). The unit still looks brand new inside and out, and now works like it again for a fraction of the cost of replacing it (which would have been a waste) or paying someone to repair it. 

Replaced the Power Board and Transformer based on another customer's experience. I hired an appliance repair tech to do the work mainly because the microwave was built in and had to be lifted out of the wall. I probably could have done the repair, but it would have taken me longer. 

Repair part was an exact replacement so the repair was “plug and play”. 

Fuses are all OK, but the primary of low voltage transformer was disconnected. Replaced with new one, everything works good. 

Diagnosed low voltage transformer failure on GE Advantium 120 microwave. Tested all other fuses and tco's before coming to conclusion. Installed new part and it came back to life!