In this situation, I had to modify the reattachment procedure a little bit. With
shut-off valves located in the floor/basement ceiling from underneath, the hot
and cold water lines did not have enough slack in them to reconnect in the
order displayed in the repair video. Rather, the hot and cold water lines had
to be reattached first, in order to eliminate the tension on the lines. Then the
internal hose was attached, then the electrical bundle was put in a place
with the accompanying clip, and electrical connectors inserted in place.
Before fully inserting and fastening the assembly back inside the washer
housing, I turned the water back on and checked thoroughly for any leaks.
Once the determination was made of no leaks, I moved the wash machine
back closer than the wall to help reduce tension on the water lines, but left
just enough space to be able to access the assembly from behind, and
proceeded to tighten the assembly down inside, and to the housing. This
Procedure resulted in a proper water valve replacement with no water leaks.