I first felt along each heating element (bake and broil) hoping to find a rough or blistered place on them. But they were both smooth with no irregular places. (replacing the elements would have been the easiest and cheapest repair.
Pulled the back off the range (unplugged, of course) - checked wiring. There were no loose connections or burned wiring. I disconnected the elements and checked them with a ohmmeter (VOM) and both had continuity. Discovered that both elements used the same common on one side and was fed by current from the clock on the other side.
Plugged in range and placed it on BAKE. The voltage from the control board (with element disconnected) was about 18 volts. Did the same with the BROIL element disconnected, still about 19 volts. UNPLUGGED RANGE. Checked the thermal limit thermocouple - seemed ok.
I ordered the control board and overlay. Came in two days and was a OEM exact replacement. Removed the old board (four screws) and installed new one. Best to take a picture of the wire connections on the control board before removing it. Reconnected the wires. An easy repair. Tools I used: 1/4" socket or drill to remove back cover and/or elements if needed. Phillips screwdriver to remove control board. small pliers to help pull wires off blade connectors on control board. Volt-ohm-meter to check continuity on elements, voltage from the control board and continuity of the thermal limit. NOTE: be careful - I was somewhat surprised that there was no insulation between the back panel (sheetmetal) and the main power connection terminal block. Remove it completely and have sufficient room to work BEFORE plugging back in to check voltages. I did have someone else from the front operate the range when needed. UNPLUG is as soon as you have completed the voltage checks. EASY REPAIR - works great now! AppliancePartsPros is a great source for this part and overlay.