Ordered the drive gear kit for our old compactor.. the trolley stops were collapsed, which allowed the ram to go all the way to the bottom, stick, breaking the plastic drive gear. This kit had all the parts needed to repair the common problem in older compactors.
There is an excellent video on the website on how to repair this issue, if you aren't familiar with these machines.
A few additional points on the repairs, not mentioned -
-These machines are heavy, so you may want someone to help you move it. Has wheels on the back, so will roll - but you have to lift up the machine from the front (has feet, not wheel on front).
- WEAR WORK GLOVES!! The metal edges on the underside and inside of the machine are RAZOR sharp. This is poor manufacturing practice, but common. Thought I could get by with being careful, but the internals are grease-laden and slick, so after a couple slipped wrenches, I had several nasty cuts from the sharp metal edges (which are everywhere). You'll also want gloves you can toss when done, because they'll likely be grease and grime coated.
- If you do the repair in your kitchen, place a large piece of cardboard, pasteboard, or heavy plastic under the machine. All manner of debris will fall out of the compactor; after all, it's a trash compactor. Besides, you don't want to be cleaning up bits of broken plastic, metal, glass, etc from your kitchen floor - or finding them later with your feet or hands. If you have vinyl or hardwood floor, suggest using heavy cardboard under the machine to prevent scratching the floor. You'll be tipping the machine on its back or sides several times, and the edges are very sharp.
-Clean anr/or re-grease the trolley augers/screw drives and threaded inserts. They'll be nasty after years of use, possibly with old hardened grease. Use standard automotive or gear drive grease. BE CAREFUL reaching inside the machine to clean and grease the screw drive assembly. Internal edges can be very sharp. Probably best to be up to date on your tetanus shots before attempting this job! ;-)
-Removing and replacing the roll pin in the pinion drive gear can be a pain. There is little room to hold a punch and hammer under the bottom drive case enclosure. Also, the pinion (motor) shaft wants to turn while you attempt to drive out the roll pin. Might be easier if you have a helper hold the shaft steady with long channel-lock pliers, or simply attach some locking pliers to the pinion shaft while driving out the roll pin. Be extra careful when installing the new roll pin so as not to accidentally hit the plastic gear with the hammer. If you do, you'll be buying another gear and repeating the process.
-Be sure to tighten the drive chain back to spec (see video on the site). Install the C-clip drive-gear retainer (don't forget to transfer any washers, spacers or bushings that may have stuck to the old drive gear sprocket).
-Slide the trolley back onto the screwdrives (think they call it clock drive screws). BEFORE you reattach the bottom chain drive cover, turn the drive gear a few turns to get the trolley threaded inserts started back onto the screw drives.
-DO NOT forget to check and replace the trolley stops. If they have any age on them, they're probably split, cracked, or about to fail. If they do, you'll be repeating the drive gear set replacement.
The repair is not that difficult, aside from the roll pin extrication and installation (they're always a bear). If you're familiar with automotive repairs, this shouldn't be too bad... Just beware of razor sharp edges everywhere, and prepare to spend time cleaning up all the dirty grease. The internals of these machines tend to be filthy, so the grease catches all manner of dirt. Gloves are mandatory. Lots or paper towels or shop rags will be handy, and some spray cleaner/degreaser as well.