I read different reviews and believed the problem was most likely the switch had failed. I confirmed the proper switch for my Model number with a very helpful Pro and ordered a new roll of tape that protects the glass top and seals the union of glass to the counter. In my case, the cooktop did not have any flanges stabilizing the cooktop so I could remove a drawer below the cooktop and push up on the cooktop to separate it from the counter. It was simply removing screws with a nut driver or Phillips head screwdriver to separate the element and switch housing from the glass top and then removing the screws and insulation to provide access to the switches. There was a galvanized tin wall separating the heating elements from the housing containing the switches, with insulation between the wall and switch housing. This had three screws holding it in place and the insulation was not attached so easily removed.
I then disconnect the original switch, using a narrow, flat-head screwdriver to ease the removal of the connector. Two of the connectors were single and the others were joint (more than one connector within plastic housing). Connecting to the new switch was easy for I connected to the new switch as I disconnected from the original.
Everything went back together smoothly. The tape appeared to be much wider than necessary and then I realized it was actually 4 narrow strips, each being the width needed, that were connected side by side. Peeled off the individual strip needed and cut to length. Very easy process. All in all, it took about 1 to 1.5 hours and my wife is happy.