Ge WB32M8 Burner Bowl Seal OEM Part

I wrote this short article on my repair procedure. I hope that you'll be able to use it. Replacing Drip Pans in a Sealed-Burner Gas Cooktop or Range Sealed burner drips drip pans (burner bowls) are attached to aluminum burners with steel screws that can corrode and bond into the aluminum, thereby making it impossible to remove the screws with a screw driver. Years of boil-overs that leave liquid trapped in the hot, moist environment under the burner trim rings increase the rate of corrosion. Removing the trim ring when cleaning up boil-overs slows this corrosion. To begin removing a corroded-in screw, twist off its head with a battery-powered, low-speed drill with its clutch set at a low number. When the screw heads are all removed, the drip pan can be lifted off. Then, to remove each corroded-in screw shaft: (1) support the underside of the burner body with a small block of wood; (2) cut off the portion of the screw shaft that extends above the burner flange using a Dremel tool or piece of hack saw blade; (3) center-punch the screw shaft with a spring punch; (4) drill through the screw shaft with a 1/16” hardened drill bit; (5) enlarge the hole with a 3/32” drill bit; and (6) tap the hole to the thread size of the replacement screws. Set the drip pan in place and install the new screws. Applying anti-seize compound to the new screw threads will slow corrosion, making the screws easier to remove in the future. An alternative procedure, if there is room on the burner flange, is to flush-cut-off the corroded-in screw shafts, then drill and tap the new holes adjacent to the old screws. This avoids having to drill and tap into the hard steel of the old screw shafts. To assure proper alignment with the drip pan holes, complete each tapped hole before beginning the next, using the drip pan as a template for centering each hole. Remove the drip pan while drilling and tapping. The new hole locations will result in the burner grate to being a few degrees rotated, which should be of no consequence. Another alternative method, which eliminates tapping the holes, is to install the drip pans with pop rivets rather than screws. However, rivet compression may crack the drip pan porcelain, and future removal of the drip pans will require drilling out the rivets, again risking damaging the drip pan porcelain.

After years of use our gas cook tops burner bowls were a mess. So we dismantled them for a good cleaning. The high temp burner seal had completely crumbled. After some time we found replacement here and in less than a week reinstalled. Tip: place your burner bowls and grates in your self cleaning oven. Like brand new.

I bought the replacement drip bowl - large and the rubber gasket which was delivered quickly. Specific steps: 1)turn off electricity to cook top 2) remove burner grate, burner cap and collar 3) remove two Philips head screws near center hole 4)lift out drip bowl and reach under it to remove electric plug to igniter. Note how old gasket fits on drip bowl. 5)take out retaining clip on igniter and remove igniter 6)clean up surface where new drip bowl will contact cooktop 7)stretch new rubber gasket over new drip bowl. IT may require an extra pair of hands to get it seated onto the new drip bowl 8)install igniter and clip and then plug in wire 9) align screw holes in drip bowl and set drip bowl into cooktop 10)install two screws and tighten 11) reinstall collar, burner cap and grate and turn on electiricity 12) Done

Purchased burner bowls and burner bowl seals for replacement. This was more difficult than it should have been. My GE stovetop sold as a Sears Kenmore included a parts list and exploded assembly diagram, but while my stovetop had one size of black burner bowl, the diagram and list included three sizes, and the part numbers listed turned out to be for white bowls. A search for "burner bowls" gave me three black bowls not listed but adjacent part numbers, so I assumed one of those must be the right one. Their diameters were never mentioned, but the shipping box sizes were listed, so I ordered the model that most closely matched the shipping box size, and ended up getting the right bowls after all. Installation was as simple as removing the two screws holding them in place, removing the bowls, old seal pieces, and rust mess, then installing the seals around the bowls. The burner bowls then readily installed with the two screws each.

Repair was really simple. Removed power from stove to insure igniter would not fire. Removed parts to gain access to 2 screws securing burner bowls to stove top. Removed screws. Lifted up burner bowl and disconnected igniter wire from igniter and removed old burner bowl seal. Transferred igniter to new burner bowl and installed new burner bowl seal.Connected igniter wire and secured burner bowl assembly to stovetop with screws. Replaced parts removed earlier. Repeated process for each burner, reconnected power and tested each burner for proper operation.