Stewart W Silver Spring , MD May 07, 2022 Oven would not come to full temperature; unreliable heating; heating elements apparently ok. My mother's GE range was not coming up to full heat (very far from it), and I was hearing a lot of relay-clicking coming from the control board. The heating elements seemed good. I suspected the control board was faulty, but there was a chance that it might be the (*much* less expensive) temperature sensor, so I ordered both from AppliancePartsPros.com (which got the parts to me very fast) so I could try the T-sensor first. After removing the doors and the back panel of the oven, and taking out one screw at the inside back surface of the oven, I was able quickly to swap in the new T-sensor -- but that didn't fix things. So I went to the back of the oven, took pictures of the board, compared them to the new board and started carefully removing connecting wires. Note: As another poster has said, the wiring is *much* more complex than what's shown in the training videos; I ended up labeling the wires as I removed them from the old board so I would know where to re-connect them on the new board. I was helped in this with a short fact sheet packaged with the part from AppliancePartsPros.com -- there had been some redesign of the board since the original, and the sheet told where the connections on the old board mapped to the new one. Still, I recommend working *very* slowly and methodically here. There was one case where it seemed like there were two wires coming into the old board and only one connection available on the new one -- I nearly panicked, but it turned out there was a jumper between the two wires at the end and they only required one connection. (Whew.) With the wires labeled and disconnected, I took out the four screws holding the board to the oven, mounted and screwed in the new board, and slowly and carefully reconnected the wires. We tested the oven, and voila! It heated beautifully, and according to my mother it has continued to do so. I was concerned because there was still a lot of relay-clicking noise, but a quick check on the web found a page on the GE Appliances site noting that a fair amount of relay-clicking is normal. So a successful outcome. I found AppliancePartsPros.com a very professional and useful site and was impressed by the service and the repair videos. Will definitely use it again if I have a similar repair to do. Read More... 31 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 30-60 minutes Tools: Nut Drivers, Pliers, Screwdrivers
Barry S Milford , KS September 24, 2014 Appliance: General Electric Electric Range JB910TK3WW Error code fc following self cleaning oven cycle Replaced Switch Spdt High Amp, Control Erc and and Latch Asm Motorized. After installing the switch amp and control panel we still had a code Locked blinking. Replaced the latch (for the door lock) and seems to be working properly now. Read More... Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 2+ hours Tools: Nut Drivers
Clark L Houston , TX April 24, 2017 Oven not maintaining proper temperature slow heating frequent relay clicking I replaced the ERC (control board) and temperature sensor. The videos on the product pages were very useful as a reference. Unfortunately, for my particular oven model, the wiring that attaches to the control board was nowhere near as nicely bundled as in the video. There were a lot of individual wires to remove and re-attach. I highly recommend always taking a lot of very good pictures of where everything connects _BEFORE_ removing any wires -- for any project like this that you attempt. It makes reattaching everything much easier. Read More... Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: Less than 15 minutes Tools: Nut Drivers, Screwdrivers