Jim S Horseheads , NY September 21, 2018 Appliance: General Electric Electric Dryer DBXR463EB0WW Sig other had continued to operate dryer until it ate through the side of the cabinet and into the front door (destroying all the plastic parts in the process) Replaced front panel and inner liner of door (kit), trap duct assembly, both bearing slides (gray and white), and drum front support bearing. Procedure is pretty much what one sees in the video clips. Exceptions in our case included: 1. The fact that our door latch¹ was on the front panel while the door strike² was on the door. The newer (replacement) design has the latch on the door and the strike on the front panel! 2. The new door did NOT have the door latch installed (as shown in the photo). Luckily, the latch from our old front panel fit just fine in the new door. Lesson: hang on to all the old parts until the job is done in case you need to salvage some of the old parts for re-use. 3. The foam packaging protecting the lower end of the Trap Duct Assembly was tangled in the adhesive of the round foam gasket. This gasket is critical to the proper operation of the dryer. Be very careful removing the foam packaging or the gasket will require replacement. 4. The upper right hand corner of the new front panel: the crimp holding the corner together was malformed and the crimp had failed; no, these corners were not welded. Fortunately it did not prevent us from installing the front panel in the normal way. 5. Assembly Hint: Before attaching the new front panel to the dryer body, run the two screws that hold it to the dryer body through their respective holes so the threads are already formed. Then when you actually assemble the new front panel to the dryer body, you aren't trying to thread new holes at the same time you are holding the drum, lining up tabs and slots, and putting in the screws. Our old dryer had phillips head screws while newer designs appear to use hex head screws. The latter is better IMHO in case you want to bother replacing them now (because they have to be removed every time you want to replace the Bearing Slides). 6. Speaking of Bearing Slides. There are two DIFFERENT Bearing Sides in use here. The dark gray pair go in the two top positions on the drum front support bearing, while the white pair occupy the the other two positions. Bearing Slides should be checked every 6 to 12 months (more often if dryer used more often) and all four replaced when any of them are damaged or worn to less than 1/4 thickness (about 1/64 inch [0.016 inch or 0.4 mm]). Note, the replacement Trap Duct Assembly includes the two moisture sensing strips. But some dryers do not have this feature so don't fret if you find no wires to connect to the two pins on the strips. _________________________ ¹ Part Diagram #327 ² Part Diagram #3049 Read More... 12 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 30-60 minutes Tools: Screwdrivers
Kenneth L Chatsworth , CA December 22, 2014 Yes it was for the inside door panel assembly I detached the door from the dryer removing two screws. Removed the Inner door panel by removing four screws, removed the latch. Replaced the new panel, Reinstalled the latch, installed the four screws. with the hinges, attached the Hinges to the dryer, Closed the door & it was done. Took 15-20 minutes. Read More... 3 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 15-30 minutes Tools: Screwdrivers
Thomas I Carlisle , PA June 07, 2018 Rust on inside of door front panel and top bearing strips and trap duct assembly worn and lint screen rusted. Replaced identified items with replacement parts from AppliancePartsPros.com. Read More... Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 15-30 minutes Tools: Screwdrivers