Ge WR23X31507 Door Light Switch OEM Part

Our refrigerator takes care of my wife and I, along with our children when they visit, and the grand kids. Over the years, it's seen its fair share of wear and tear. Thankfully, nothing major has happened that hasn't been able to be repaired right here in the home, and by me. Our refrigerator is a GE side-by-side with an ice maker/water dispenser, and has held up well. I've ordered parts for it from AppliancePartsPros.com for all of its repairs, and while GE/Frigidaire have been changing out a few of their designs for parts replacement, it's not been that difficult to make the repairs we've needed to make. The one thing that makes it the easiest, is the videos for repairs that you offer for part changes. I know that you can't do every part for every specific application, but you do cover things generally enough, that being somewhat mechanically handy, makes it very simple to do the transition I need to do from time to time with the various models of videos you use, verses the model that I actually have. Most of them are so close, while some are exactly the same, that it makes it a breeze to do the things I've had to do to keep our refrigerator up and running and keep repair cost down, and replacement at bay. Thank You for all the help and the parts availability. Customer service over the phone that I've had to use when making order changes from a few mistakes that I've made while ordering, has been very professional and helpful to make those corrections, and also made sure that I was ordering the right parts for my refrigerator just to double check. Thanks again, you have a customer that'll stay right here for my future appliance needs. Next is the washing machine! Hang on, here we go???

First of all...shut power to fridge...unplug it or shut off the breaker or remove fuse at electrical panel...to prevent shock .Gently pried the existing switch out ….. occasionally the switch would not work.... placed a thin screwdriver blade under the lip of the bottom edge of the switch...there is a bump in the molded plastic of the switch that holds it in place at the bottom so bottom must be pried first....then rocked the switch back and forth until it was freed from the fridge exposing the connection terminals ..the wiring connections were not damaged at all and I was able to pry them off also by using the thin blade of the screwdriver....the difficulty in my case was that the manufacturer left only enough wire for the connections to barely be exposed...if they were damaged and new connections were needed...that would have presented quite a dilemma...you also have to use care that the short wiring stays exposed and does not drop back into the wall of the fridge..how they calculated the exact length of wire needed is beyond me...there was literally no slack in the length of the wiring...pushed the connection terminals onto the new switch and replaced the switch...into the opening...again the top goes in first and the bottom with the bump last...opposite of the removal process... so it can fit into the opening and stay in place...tested it a few times by depressing the switch and found it worked fine. Would have been much easier to do if the manufacturer had used longer wiring...even an inch would have made things easier...and as I said ...fortunately the terminals were ok so they did not need to be replaced ! Not a difficult job but you do have to use care with the prying screwdriver ..only took a few minutes to complete the project. If your fridge is dark when you open the door...you could test the switch by pushing it closed or moving it...in my case lights came on so the old switch was an intermittent problem.....or...if lights stay off no matter how many times you depress the switch the switch could be tested by..shutting off the power...removing the switch and placing a short length of wire into the terminals .it would have to be very thin wire....restore the power and see if lights come on......if fridge lights come on and freezer lights don't...it could be the opposite problem......freezer light switch could be bad ! All in all...a fairly easy fix ...just be patient and gentle with the prying screwdriver.

Pop out the old switches with a putty knife pressing down on the tab, grabbed with pliers to pull out, disconnect the wires and connect new switches, pressing back in place.

Ordered parts and replaced

Ice auger was replaced first and worked for 3 weeks. I then researched problem of freezing produce and temperature not staying at set temperature. I then replaced the damper assembly which was broken. that correct the fridge problem. Then the freezer compartment began frosting up and I had a clicking noise every time the unit started to run. After researching the site again I decided to replace the defrost heater, fan and the other 2 sensors as the freezer would be completely disassembled and the cost was nominal to do all scenarios. The heater was burnt out totally. When I had the unit reassembled and running again after days of operational proof my unit is operating just as it was the day I purchased it. All my problems are gone. No more frost, dispenses ice, temperature stays steady where it is set, no clicking noise and the fan is much quieter. Cost was around $275.00 for everything and I am willing to bet I can get another 16 years of service from my unit. I did receive 1 incorrect part which I need to return. Other than that I swear by Appliance Parts .com