Ge WD21X10519 Flood Switch Assembly OEM Part

Removed the lower rack, removed the lower wash arm, removed the lower coarse filter, removed fine filter ( still no tools require to this point). Removed two 1/4" head screws with nut driver to then remove float switch, unplugged float switch, plugged in new switch, reinstalled filter, etc. This is a 5 minut job!

I replaced the Switch flood assembly and that corrected the problem. This is a thermistor unit. I could not get any ohm reading from this. While I had the dishwasher out I replaced the old heater. The old heater's ohm reading was 16. The new heater reading was 16. I now have a spare. Additional info: I also checked the high limit thermostat that is fastened to the tub. It read closed as it should. If the high limit switch is open this would indicate the relay on the main control board. Replacement of the main control board is the repair for that. If the heat relay's contact on the main control board weld closed, this will cause a "runaway" heating condition. Then the high limit thermostat would open and heater would stop heating. Hope this helps anyone that needs it. Thanks, Nick

I figured it was the valve, but searching on the Appliance Parts site, somebody said they fixed it by replacing the switch flood assembly. So I order both parts. The Switch Flood Assembly was easiest to replace, so I decided to try that first. When I pulled out the old assembly, I noticed it did not 'rattle', as the new one did. So, there is apparently a float ball that had gotten stuck. I put the new one in and poof.. it worked. The only update to the instructions is a reminder that the assembly has a wiring harness connected, so you need to be a little gentle when you remove the assembly. One of the symptoms that might be helpful. The unit would make a 'grinding' noise at the start of the cycle. I assume this was it trying to drain itself before starting the wash.

Replaced the float switch, and as a precaution, the heating element (although that part continuity tested good, but was 4 years old). This was after considerable research, trying to piece together information about this dishwasher. Common sense told me it would be a thermostat - so I found out that if it tests good for continuity (which it did), then its good, because it's a "high limit" thermostat. This was a relief because the thermostat is part of the drain pump wiring harness - $90. Glad I didn't need it! I was surprised the float switch is the demon in these dishwashers, but it makes sense if you consider this whole appliance is made of plastic, and it's trying to prevent destroying itself with heat if the water level is not correct. The parts arrived sooner than expected (next day on a weekend!). We were delighted to get the dishwasher up and running again, the sooner the better, with a total cost of $64. Not to mention a great feeling of satisfaction having done it myself.

Found GE factory service manual on the net. Found fill system diagram and the part in that system that was not allowing water into the machine.....flood switch thermistor.....Ordered part and installed it. Done deal.