Steve December 20, 2016 for Model Number JBP82TH1WW My control panel seems to be fine, but the faceplate graphics sheet (the thin plastic layer on the surface) is cracking apart, making it difficult to operate the panel. Can I get just the plastic layer for the front surface? Thanks for your help, Steve
1 Answer Hello Steve. The part needed WB27T10526 has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source or replacement for the part. Read More...
Y.G. August 29, 2013 for Model Number JBP82CH1CC From talking to someone and looking long and far on the internet, I thought maybe my problem was the oven control--elsewhere called the "electronic range control," but now it appears that because, as described below, BOTH the oven heat elements AND the range top elements don't heat, that something else that affects both must be the problem. ---Any ideas, analysis, places for me to look, etc.? -----I have a model JBP82CH1CC GE elect range. (It is from about the year 2005 or 2006 only) About half an hour into baking something the other night, the heat went off, was cooling, and not adding heat (was just slightly warm when I discovered this; not at the 300deg I had it set at). The rotary switches--(infinite switches I have learned on the internet, they are called)---and the oven control-clock control panel in the center seem to have enough power to light up their indicator lights, and operate the oven temperature target settings, the start button, the timers, the clock setting including the LED (?) lighted panel readings of time, temperature target etc. ----BUT NO actual heating in the cooking, baking-broiling oven areas. When I noticed the problem, I went thru the controls process to start it the oven baking again, which didn't work. And then tried the Broil setting, which didn't work. ----Then tried each of the range top burners. both on high and low settings. --None worked. I have tried unplugging and replugging in the range; still no results; and I tried turning the breaker down in the basement off and on a couple of times (with a minute or so between off and on)---that didn't work either. Since BOTH the oven AND all the range top elements are out of commission, it would seem too much of a coincidence that ALL the 7 or so heating switches and electronic controls went bad at once, but that there must be some other answer---like somewhere in the supply of power to the elements. (p.s. Is the 220W power connected directly to the various heating elements----it would seem that the switches and electronic oven control board must somehow intervene---------but all of that is way beyond me----I was able to get a wiring diagram and a schematic online, but it only made me feel even stupider. (I would ha-ha, but stove is out and I would like to eat sometime this week, so don't feel very ha-ha!) ----------Thanks for whatever help you can provide, so I can buy some parts, fix my stove. (If I could only cook decently, that would make everything perfect! LOL!) Thanks!
1 Answer Hello Y.G. Test at the terminal block and see if you have 240 volts coming to the unit. If not, or if the cord is burnt, that is the issue with the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Jim May 14, 2013 for Model Number jbp83hh1bb My front burner has a double element if you put it on it will only operate in high weather it is on the large or small burner setting. I believe it is the infinite switch. The other thing it does is the light indicating a hot burner will stay lite at times. Even if burner is cold. But I do not know what causes that to stay on?
1 Answer Jim, You are correct in the infinite switch being faulty and causing unit to only run on high. For the hot surface indicator light this would be a bad limiter on the element. You would need to replace the element for this issue. Read More...