Jeremy September 09, 2020 for Model Number GSH25JSXBSS Hi, I had a similar problem as someone else on here, that the fridge side was freezing. The fridge had the simple mylar damper flap, so I replaced it with the motorized version, and it fixed it. But now I am noticed that the fridge is short cycling. It may be unrelated unless its a temp sensor issue in the sensor that came on the new damper. The freezer is around 10 degrees currently and the fridge around 41. I have the temps turned all the way on cold, so it seems it should be colder inside. I've noticed that the fridge (compressor, and both fans) will run for a couple of minutes, and then both fans and the compressor shut down. Then a couple of minutes later, both fans turn back on, but the compressor fails to turn on (with a relay click - probably thermal overload since the compressor was just on). I've felt the compressor, and its a little warm, but not hot. I'll hear the click a couple of times, and then by the third time, the compressor will kick on. It will run a couple of minutes, and then both fans and compressor turn off again, and the cycle repeats. Would this be a control board issue? Or a temperature sensor issue? I was thinking if a sensor is acting up, the control board could possibly be working correctly but just receiving bad readings. As a test, I did take the control board out and put it in an equivalent fridge with a refrigerant leak, and the compressor runs non stop in there, so I sorta don't think its the control board.
1 Answer Jeremy, it may be possible that there could be too much of a current draw coming from the compressor that it shuts down the main control or that there may be a short in one of the circuits. The compressor windings can be tested (while the refrigerator is unplugged) for resistance and should measure 3O when tested from the overload pin to the top left pin, then 4O when tested from the overload pin to the top right pin. If the windings test properly, the next step would be to test the compressor wire circuit and fan circuits for any shorted wires. Read More...
Mandy April 05, 2019 for Model Number Ap6795735 Hi, I have a GSH25JSXBSS refrigerator, the fridge section is freezing. I already changed the thermostat of the fridge side, but it continues freezing. I was thinking of changing the damper ap5795735, but I notice (maybe I’m wrong) that the damper in this refrigerator does not have any mechanical part. Is that right? If not, how does it control the temperature? What should I buy?
1 Answer Mandy, the damper [WR13X10988] has a motor that opens and closes the damper when the control sends the required voltage for it to engage. The control does this based on the temperatures that it reads from the thermistors. Read More...
Ed April 08, 2018 Freezer side was cold, refrigerator side was warm, I'm replacing the damper door assembly and the evaporator fan motor. Can there be any other thing i need to check?
Mathew September 18, 2016 for Model Number GSH25JSTFSS Hello, I have the GE GSH25JSTFSS refrigerator. This model doesn't have a damper only the plastic flap. If I order the part WR02X13568 (electric damper) how does it get power? How does the door thermostat talk to it? I only see power to the light.
1 Answer Mathew, There is a plug in on the refrigerator side where the thermistor is plugged into that will allow the motorized damper to plug into and the thermistor will work the same as it does at this time. Read More...
Robert August 20, 2015 for Model Number HSM25GFTCSA I have a hotpoint sxs refrigerator also freezing the fresh food section, also with a mylar damper. You suggested an electro-mechanical damper to replace the mylar. Is this refrigerator set up to accept an electro-mechanical damper? I looked at the receptacle in the fridge and it looks like the pins are there. The mylar damper offers no resistance. It just flopps around and does not offer any resistance to air flow from the evap fan. Should there be a certain amount of resistance? I can hear the evaporator fan rpms change according to control settings. I would appreciate your expertise.
1 Answer Hello Robert. You will need to order WR13X10988 to repair the unit if the damper is broken. Read More...
Warren June 08, 2015 for Model Number GSH25JSTFSS Fresh food is freezing, damper never closes, it is always open. I have already removed the one in my frig. To my surprise, there is no damper door. Nothing to regulate the temperature in the fresh food section. Why is this? There should be a damper door which opens and closes to control the temperature, help
1 Answer Warren, There were some models built between 2007 and 2009 that had a mylar damper in it. The mylar damper is just a flap that opens according to the fan speed. For your unit, if the mylar damper is sticking open then it would be recommended to replace and add a electro mechanical damper. The part number for the damper is WR13X10988. Read More...
Jonathon August 12, 2014 for Model Number GSH25JFTFBB My freezer works great but my refrigerator is warm. There is no air moving through the damper to get the refrigerator cold. I do not understand what could be happening. The evaporator fan motor is running fine. What other component could there be for air flow to get into the refrigerator to get it back to temperature. At this point I am ruling out the temperature sensor located in the fridge because that is not what opens and closes the damper or is it? Looks like to me the damper opens when the evaporator fan motor in the freezer comes on. Please help I like GE and do not want to have to buy a different brand refrigerator for a simple fix. Thank you!
1 Answer Jonathon, The issue with the unit may be a defrost problem. You will want to check for impacted frost on the coils of the evaporator in the freezer. If there is impacted frost then you can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...