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Customer Questions and Answers for Defrost Timer by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM6185172
Manufacturer Part Number: WR9X520

The Defrost Timer is an OEM replacement part for GE refrigerators. It automatically initiates timed defrost cycles to prevent the buildup of frost or ice within the refrigerator compartment and freezer coils. Regular defrosting maintains optimal temperature regulation and airflow while minimizing mineral deposits long-term.  

Symptoms of a bad defrost timer include:

  • Inability to initiate automatic defrost functions
  • Accumulation of excessive frost or ice buildup risking freezer damage    
  • Temperature control or airflow issues disrupting refrigeration  
  • Potential dripping or leaks from defrost water overflow

Causes of failure involve worn-out internal contacts or degraded electronic components from extended exposure to refrigerated conditions. Mineral residue accumulating within the timer mechanism over many years also risks impeding electrical connections.

This GE replacement part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore refrigerators. 

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Defrost Timer (Part Number: OEM6185172)

1 Answer

Steve, The most likely cause for the unit staying in defrost would be a faulty defrost timer which is part number WR9X520.

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1 Answer

Jim, Yes there is a round screw type piece on the front that if you turn it you can put the unit into a defrost cycle. These defrost controls are normally a 30 minute timer in which the defrost will stop and the unit will go back to cooling mode 30 minutes after the start of the defrost.

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1 Answer

Hello Andrew. The timer is located inside the control panel section of the fresh food. You should see the screws to remove to drop the panel down and access and replace the timer. Just make sure you have the power to the unit turned off before replacing the timer.

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1 Answer

Hello CC. If the thermostat is new, and the unit does not defrost, you will have to replace either the heater or the timer to repair the unit.

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Rob for Model Number mtx18gasjrww

I had a defrost heater burn up on me and short out and i replaced heater and plugged unit back in and wouldn't kick on. So I pulled thermostat out and read with meter to make sure the contact was closing and it was and the next thing on schematic was the defrost timer. I was reading continuity between gray and blue which isn't good all the time so I moved dial on front of timer and now have continuity between gray and black which is what I want. I plugged in and refrigerator and it fired right up so my question is would the timer be bad and is it going to stick closed next time it goes into defrost mode. I do not want to burn up another heater?

1 Answer

Rob, When the unit is in defrost mode you will have continuity between blue and gray and during normal operation it will be between black and gray. If the timer is not advancing out of the defrost mode then the issue would be the timer.

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1 Answer

Hello Phillip. Depends on the number of cycles of compressor and door opening, but usually 2 to 3 times.

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1 Answer

Cathy, This issue would most likely be caused by a bad defrost heater or the timer. You can check to see if the heater is good by turning the defrost timer until it clicks an then check to see if the heater is coming on. If the heater does not come on then the heater is most likely the cause and if heater does come on then the defrost timer would be the cause.

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1 Answer

Hello Frank, You need to begin the troubleshooting process with the unit frosted or at least after you let it run 24 hours. This is because the defrost thermostat can only be tested when it is below 20°F. Open the fresh food door and look at the control enclosure for a hole about 1/2 inch in diameter, (usually straight up). There will be a plastic "knob" inside the opening that can be turned with a small screwdriver. This is how the unit is advanced into the defrost cycle. As you turn it, you will hear it clicking. When it gets to the defrost cycle, it will click louder. Stop at this point. This is the beginning of the defrost cycle. Close the door and wait about two minutes. Now open the freezer compartment and look for an orange glow from the bottom "air grill" in the back wall of the freezer. If you see the glow, the defrost heater is energized and the issue is the defrost timer. The heater and defrost thermostat is verified good if the glow appears. If you don't see the orange glow, you need to remove the rear wall of the freezer compartment and test each side of the defrost thermostat for the 120Vac. If the voltage is on both sides of the defrost thermostat, it is good and you will need to use a resistance meter with power off to the unit to test through the defrost heater. Once you have located the bad part, you should allow the unit to sit in defrost with the unit plugged in for at least 45 minutes to make sure the timer cycles back out of defrost. This makes sure the defrost timer motor is good and advancing the timer properly.

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Steve for Model Number WR09x0520

Hi, My GE refrigerator BTX18SISGLWH cool on top freezer but warm on lower fresh food. I unpluged power and thaw ice twice ,after thawed, lower refrige feel cool and with cool air flow but once ice build up on the freezer wall, no cool air into below and warm up again in one week. I checked defrost controler and turn the timer and heard "click " and all of refrigerator stopped .The defrost control is 15hrs @44 min and part number is WR09X0520. I have to return the timer and start engine again after 45 min. what is problem for my refrigerator and defrost control is normal? by the way, it is hard to remove defrost control? Thanks for help

1 Answer

Steve, Based on the information. If you have the unit in a forced defrost and after 45 minutes the unit has not come out of the defrost, then the defrost control is bad. To replace the defrost control you would unplug the power and remove the cover where you turned the defrost control and take out 2 screws that hold the timer in place. Once removed you will disconnect the wires and install a new timer. If when you put the unit into defrost and if the ice on the coils did not melt then you would need to check the defrost heater and thermostat for continuity and if no continuity then replace the part.

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1 Answer

Frank, You will want to first check to make sure that the fan in the freezer is operational. If not then check to make sure that it is getting 120 vac. If it is then replace the fan. If the fan is working then check to make sure that the evaporator coils are not impacted with ice. If it is then it sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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