Kale E September 08, 2024 for Model Number dv45h7000ew/a2 I bought the pts-17s thermal fuse to fix my Samsung dryer, and I need to know which terminal connects to the blue wire and which connects to the black wire? How can I tell? Thanks
John March 25, 2024 for Model Number DV42H5000EW/A3-0000 Hourglass is on. Resetting doesn’t help. When press start it counts down and shuts off with no actual drying happening
1 Answer John, Check the thermostat next to the thermister on the blower housing for continuity. No continuity and it will need to be replaced. Read More...
Ray M January 11, 2024 for Model Number Samsung DV48H7400EW/A2 Hello I need to replace the thermal cutoff fuse for the heating duct and in the original assembly it has a fuse labeled PTS-17S 3035 N160 which is listed as P/N DC47-00016A and rated for 185F. But where I have some confusion is that everywhere I check, they have listed P/N DC97-008874 as the replacement. This fuse is rated for 320F which is significantly higher than the one that blew on my original heating duct. Also the replacement kit has the bracket attached to DC97-008874 but not the other one. Can I just use DC97-008874? Thank you.
1 Answer Ray M, Based on the model number provided, your unit has two thermal fuses. One on the blower housing and one on the heater housing. Thermal Fuse DC47-00015A / DC47-00015A is for the heater housing. Thermal Fuse DC47-00016A / DC47-00016A is for the blower housing. Read More...
Rene Ortuno September 13, 2023 for Model Number DVE60M9900V/A3-00 i have this dryer suddenly one day just didnt started i dissasembled it lookin for failures buy everything ok when i reassembled it now starts and works ok but in the procces i broke the thermal fuse connector and doesnt heat. it has PTS-17S Y049 N160 printed on it can you help me telling me which part number has to be bought? regards
Scott May 21, 2022 for Model Number DV431AEW/XAA-01 Hello, looking to install one of you DC96-00887C thermal fuses but in your video instructions it says to make note of which color wire goes where, which I did, but then when I went to install the new one I realized the orientation of the part will effect the wiring. But the video doesn't't talk about the orientation of the part. Any way you can tell me which orientation if the correct one? The best identify marks I can see are on the side with connectors. One the black plastic circle they're built into one side is marked "PW#" the other is "PCC." Also, one side of the plant circle has the slightest bit of a "bible" where the connecter is, the side near the other connector is completely flat. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. I guess another alternative is just wiring it and seeing if it works, but am worried I might do damage. Is that the case?
1 Answer Scott, as the thermal fuse assembly DC96-00887C is a single contact switch, the wires can be placed on either terminal and it will not damage the part. Read More...
Clem November 15, 2021 for Model Number DVE45R6100W/A3 My Samsung Dryer turns on, but when I hit the start button, nothing happens. The screen indicates that it is running, but it is not. My dryer is 1.5 years old and was working well until I tried to use it this morning. I looked inside through from the vent opening, and the belt and pulleys all look fine (if not to say like new). The dryer vent hose is clean. Any idea what could be causing this?
1 Answer Clem, it would be recommended that the main control is accessed and tested for 120VAC at the brown wire of the motor relay during a cycle. If there is not voltage, the main control has failed (the REV number of your appliance would be necessary to ensure the correct part is identified). If there is voltage, the unit would need to be unplugged and the thermal cut off on the blower housing tested for continuity. If there is continuity and the wires are not broken or damaged, then the failure would likely be the motor if the drum can turn freely. Read More...
Drgary911 December 13, 2020 for Model Number DV45H6300EG/A3 my dryer wasn't heating possibly due to a blown thermal fuse due to an overfilled lint trap. i cleaned everything out and replaced the thermal fuse and checked continuity of the heating unit thermistor and upper and lower heating element. all were good, so i replaced the fuse. this worked for 2 loads and then the replaced thermal fuse blew again. so i replaced the fuse again and turned the unit on just air dry to make sure it was blowing good and it was. then i turned on the heat and nothing. took it apart...no continuity of the 3rd fuse (original and 2 replacements). it must have blown instantly which would mean it never really had a chance to heat up. i checked continuity of the thermistor and dual element again and all were good, but i'm seeing some comments about the resistance of the thermistor, so i decided to check that. if i read my meter right (set to ohms x1...is this resistance?), my thermistor was reading 5.25 ohm, my upper element read 40 ohm, & the lower element read 21 ohm. doesn't appear to be any ground issues of the element but i wonder if maybe it's ready to go or is drawing too much juice (could that blow the thermal fuse?). i read somewhere that the manufacturer suggests replacing the thermistor when you replace the fuse (again, there's continuity across the thermistor, but could the resistance cause the thermal fuse to blow?). any suggestions? thanks.
1 Answer DrGary, Based on the information provided i suggest locating your tech sheet that should be with the machine and check the resistance of the thermistor and the elements and compare to what is called for in the tech sheet. Sounds like something is shorted somewhere. Read More...
Pat November 23, 2020 for Model Number DV331AER/XAA-0000 I replaced a burnt heating element, the fuse on the heating element, the thermostat, the thermistor, and the fuse on the blower all with original Samsung parts bought from you guys. I also cleaned the entire dryer out as well as the duct to the outside. Also, checked all parts for continuity and they seem to be in range. Also, assured that heating element was not grounded. I have also checked the power cord for continuity as well as power at the cord terminal block. I have also checked power and continuity at PCB relay and voltage is fine and there is no continuity at relay. The dryer heats one load of clothes and then the high limit fuse on the heating element blows and it stops heating. I have replaced the high limit fuse twice. Any next steps would be most helpful. Thanks.
1 Answer Hello Pat, a thermal limiter fuse will only open under a high (excessive) heat condition. Based on what you have done/checked it is likely the heater relay on the main control board is sticking closed at times, it is part (DC92-00382A) however it is no longer available. Read More...
Pat November 17, 2020 for Model Number DV331AER/XAA-0000 I replaced a burnt heating element, the fuse on the heating element, the thermostat, the thermistor, and the fuse on the blower all with original Samsung parts bought from you guys. I also cleaned the entire dryer out as well as the duct to the outside. Also, checked all parts for continuity and they seem to be in range. Also, assured that heating element was not grounded. The dryer heats one load of clothes and then the high limit fuse blows and it stops heating. I have replaced the high limit fuse twice. Am I correct in assuming that the heating element is staying on due to a faulty relay in the main control board or a faulty thermistor circuit. Please advise. Thanks.
1 Answer Pat, the failure would most likely be due to the main control DC92-00382A having a stuck relay. With the power cord of the dryer unplugged, the relay can be tested for continuity from the black wired terminal to the blue wired terminal on the relay box. If there is continuity, the control has failed and would need to be replaced. Unfortunately, the manufacturer has discontinued this part and it is no longer available. Read More...
Don October 14, 2020 for Model Number samsung dryer ev45h6300ew I've replaced the 2 sensors in the heating element box, the thermal fuse on the blower box, and the element itself. I started the machine, ran for five minutes with hot air, an audible "pop" and blue flash, and now luke warm air. If I by chance switched the wires on the sensor/switches on the heater box, or the blower box, would this cause the element to burn out one side? It still dries but takes 2 cycles to dry a small load.
1 Answer Don, unfortunately, the model provided is not showing as a valid model. If the model and serial numbers could be verified and provided in a new question, this may allow for the most accurate information to be presented. However, generally if there has been a miswired dual coil element, this can cause an element to not heat properly. Read More...