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Customer Questions and Answers for Main Power Control Board by Samsung

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By: Samsung
Part Number: OEM13678284
Manufacturer Part Number: DC92-00123C

Questions & Answers

For Samsung Main Power Control Board (Part Number: OEM13678284)

David for Model Number Samsung Model DV210AEW/XAA

I've blown 2 elements in the dryer in 6-8 months. I've replaced them and now the heat never shuts off. I've kept runs short in testing to avoid cooking off sensors or the element. The replacement for the main board is no longer available (DC92-00123C). Thanks, Samsung. My question is: Will board part number DC92-00123B work for basic functions (timer and temperature control) in place of the "D" variant? They have the same connections on them, but a couple of small differences in components that don't seem to be related to major output functions. The board has a thick layer of conformal coating so digging out components will be no fun. I've read a few other questions in here and suspect I have a stuck relay as well. I wonder if giving the board a few rapid increase in G-force strikes (back in my Navy days stuck relays were fixed with a knock on them with the back end of a screw driver and worked about 99% of the time) might help.

1 Answer

David, This issue will most likely be a stuck relay on the control board which as you stated has been discontinued. The only option is if you can locate one online or see if you can find someone to rebuild the control board for your like a company called corecentricsolutions.com

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Jordan R for Model Number DV350AEW/XAA-0000

My heater coil burned open a few months back. I replaced it and about six month later, it burned open again. I replaced it and a couple of weeks later, the thermal cut off opened (wiring diagram refers to it as TH3). I replaced it and the thermistor. A couple of weeks later, the thermal cut off has opened again. Blower motor is working fine and there is no build up of lint anywhere. Plenty of air coming from the vent outside the house. What else could be causing the dryer to overheat". The answer was a stuck relay on the main PCB might be causing it. I have replaced the board and still operates the same. I checked the output voltage at the relay on the board (going to the heater) and it stayed between 120VAC to 122 VAC for the 10 minutes I ran the dryer (dryer was producing heat). Shouldn't the relay open and close the circuit to the heater during the cycle? What else could prevent this from happening?

1 Answer

Jordan, You will want to check the wiring between the control board and the thermistor and between the heater and control board to ensure that there are not shorted or damaged wires.

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Jordan Ross for Model Number DV350AEW/XAA-0000

My heater coil burned open a few months back. I replaced it and about six month later, it burned open again. I replaced it and a couple of weeks later, the thermal cut off opened (wiring diagram refers to it as TH3). I replaced it and the thermistor. A couple of weeks later, the thermal cut off has opened again. Blower motor is working fine and there is no build up of lint anywhere. Plenty of air coming from the vent outside the house. What else could be causing the dryer to overheat?

1 Answer

Jordan, The most likely cause for the element and the thermal fuse blowing would be a stuck relay on the control board which would cause the heater to stay on.

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Jim for Model Number DV220AEW/XAA Samsung

Ok, 3 months ago settings on dial that required sensing stopped working, had to use manual settings. So now dryer working but no heat, so I changed complete heating element assembly not just the element. So vacuumed out entire machine. Tried machine and no heat still, I also don't have hooked to vent just to rule out ventilation problem. So then replaced thermal fuse and thermistor even though they tested ok. Tried again, still no heat, did some research decided to look at the brain/ main circuit board. Well sure enough it had a melted block box on it and connecter. It was the biggest black box on the corner of the circuit board. So I repaired the connection and installed new circuit board. So dryer fired right up and everything working great. Did 3 loads of laundry and went to bed. Well next morning opened garage and noticed a slight haze in air and slight electric plastic smell in air. Went to turn on dryer and no heat again. So I am guessing if I open this up it will be the exact part on circuit board fried again. So the question now is what else could it be? What is causing it to short that out ? Starting to wonder if it is coming from motor? Thanks Jim

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