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Customer Questions and Answers for Defrost Heater (Evaporator) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18030888
Manufacturer Part Number: WP67001794

This evaporator defrost heater melts frost from the freezer's evaporator coil during the automatic defrost cycle, restoring proper airflow and cooling. Replacing a failed heater helps prevent recurring ice buildup and temperature swings.

  • Heats the evaporator coil at set intervals to clear ice
  • Maintains airflow so the fresh food section and freezer cool consistently
  • Common signs of failure: heavy frost on the back freezer panel or evaporator
  • Other symptoms may include warm refrigerator temperatures, reduced airflow, or fan noise from ice contact
What's included: One defrost heater Install notes:
  • Disconnect power before servicing; wear appropriate PPE
  • Access the heater behind the freezer's rear panel; defrost ice with warm air/steam—avoid sharp tools
  • Reinstall in the original position; keep wiring clear of the fan and moving/hot parts; ensure secure harness connections
  • After reassembly, verify the defrost cycle per service instructions; if frost returns, also check the defrost thermostat/bi-metal and control

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Defrost Heater (Evaporator) (Part Number: OEM18030888)

Duane for Model Number ABB2223DEQ

I have been through five thermostats in the last two years and have been defrosting manually for over six months. Three times the dealer has sent out service men or come himself. I have replaced the thermostat myself as well. I have now determined that the defrost heater is burned out. My wife wants a new fridge, but I think I just need to replace the heater and maybe the thermostat again. I don't see how to remove the defrost heater from the condensor. I removed the clips, but it seems intertwined with the tubing. Do I need to remove the condensor? If so, how? I have been told that a defrost heater that is "going bad" can burn out defrost thermostats. I would think that as an element goes bad the resistance goes up, but that would result in less current and that would not burn out the thermostat. Does the resistance go down or does it go up? Thanks,

1 Answer

Duane, Besides replacing the defrost heater WP67001794 and thermostat 12001937, you'll want to check and make sure the thermostat is mounted to the evaporator tube, tightly and properly. check and make sure the splices for the defrost thermostat and tight and sealed against moisture and water. and check the multi pug, in the back wall for the same. You may need to remove the compressor compartment cover, and check the harness connector in the freezer floor and make sure the wires and connectors are tight and making good connections.

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Rich for Model Number ARB2214CW

My defroster is not working. I checked the heater and there is continuity between the beginning and end of the heater tube. There is some resistance (I don't remember the ohm reading, but it was on the order of 50 ohms). I put the thermostat in ice water and did not get continuity, so I replaced it. The heater is still not coming on. The defrost timer does click over and shuts off the compressor. What should I do next? What is the voltage/amperage that goes to the heater? Can I check that from the timer? Is there a way to check the wiring from the timer to the connector in the freezer by the evaporator? I am concerned that a mouse might have gotten into the mechanical areas of the refrigerator.

1 Answer

Hello Rich. Turn the timer to the defrost cycle and test for 120 volts coming to the heater when the thermostat is cold. If there is power there, and the heater does not work, replace the heater. If there is no power, then you either have a bad wire or the timer is bad on the unit.

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1 Answer

Get-r-Done, Based on your meter and setting. I would expect a resistance reading of 15 to 20 ohms across the two wires on the heater assembly. That style defrost heater is usually an "open" (no resistance) or "closed" (any resistance) circuit, on any meter or setting. The defrost thermostat has to be at a temperature of 32 dgrs.F or below in order to test for a "closed" circuit( a glass of ice water works well) any temp. above will usually produce an "open" circuit. If all checks are good and in range, you'll need to consider the defrost timer WP67001036 located up inside the refrigerator control/light panel assembly. Good Luck and Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello Ladybug K. Here are the instructions from the manufacture. Hope this helps. You will need to disconnect the power to the unit. Empty all contents from the freezer. Remove Freezer back Panel: 1. Press tabs that hold both freezer door glides in place at the left and the right side of the compartment . 2. Remove the freezer drawer glides. 3. Remove either the left or the right drawer glide adapter to all for removal of freezer wall. 4. Remove freezer air grill by prying inwards toward center with screwdriver in the two slots provided for release tabs. 5. Remove hex head screws holding back panel and ice maker in place. Removing Defrost heater: 1. Follow instructions on removing freezer back wall. 2. Remove the hex head screws holding evaporator to back cabinet freezer wall. 3. Disconnect plugs from both sides of heater. 4. Release connectors from air dams on each side of evaporator coil. 5. Grip evaporator tubing at left and right sides and tug evaporator sharply forward. Then roll evaporator forward and up, exposing evaporator heater in its location amid fins at bottom of evaporator. 6. Take care to notice how and where they are placed, remove the spring clips that hold heater into evaporator fins. 7. Pull evaporator heater out of evaporator fins, being careful that heater electrical leads do not snag on evaporator. 8. Reinstall in reverse order.

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1 Answer

Hello Nick. Yes, you will test for continuity and it should read closed. Hope this helps.

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