Tmcue August 09, 2012 for Model Number LDG312 Hi APP - Thank You for responding. In response to your answer, Yes, the door switch is fully functional and operates the circuit correctly. The motor switch also functions properly. The original 303358 drive motor with Gray, Dark Blue and yellow winding leads are powered off the now obsolete 303877 motor switch. In normal operation, as the motor ramps up to 1725 RPM, the centrifugal switch on the motor shaft pulls in which allows the contacts on the motor switch to return to the normally 'un-acted upon' state. Therefore, the power drops off the Gray lead and transfers the top contact to complete the Yellow lead of the drive motor to neutral. The bottom contact completes the heating circuitry from Black lead to the Light Blue and White wires to neutral. As reported in previous post, heating circuitry functions properly, verified with continuity across all components. 125 VAC is present across the motor leads and the thermal device clipped over the motor windings is good. (Thermal in Dark Blue 'Run' power supply to motor.) The motor does not have external 'Start' and 'Run' Capacitors so only conclusion is Gray wire to internal 'Start' windings is not powering the 'Start' function. Not enough 'juice' for the motor to start rotation. Your thoughts? Also, what is the rating of the motor overload device clipped above the windings on the drive motor? Thanks! TM
1 Answer TM, Yes, the gray wire is the 120 VAC supply to the motor from the timer. You should have 120 VAC on the gray wire to chassis ground, as soon as you set the timer to any cycle. Now that you mentioned it. The motor overload is basically a "thermostat" you should be able to remove one wire and check across the terminals and have a "closed circuit", if not you'll need to replace the motor. Another quick test is a power test cord(a short cord with aligator clips) attach the clips to the gray and red terminals on the motor switch and plug the cord into a 120 VAC outlet, the motor should start and run, if not you'll need a new motor W10410999 , if the motor does srtart and run, you'll need to strat checking for a broken wire in the harness. Read More...
Tmcue July 30, 2012 for Model Number Maytag LDG312 I have no power when start switch depressed and dryer will not start. Full 125 VAC to dryer. 125V on Red wire to start switch. Power transfers to Yellow wire when switch depressed. Interesting note, I have 125V on both terminals of the buzzer; Black wire on left (125V from power in) and Gray wire on right (125V from off timer block). Dryer operated perfectly until this loss of power. All other components check okay with continuity across the devices. Any ideas?
1 Answer TM, Did you check the wiring and the door switch ? You won't complete the circuit if the door switch is faulty. Based on your post, you have power all the way to the door switch. The 120 VAC on the buzzer is normal, you're using the same power sorce through the buzzer and to the motor. The circuit is broken through the motor switch, when the motor ramps down and stops turning. Read More...