Samsung DC93-00634A Dryer Idler Pulley Assembly OEM Part

From watching the video I got the general idea, disassemble 50% of the dryer. Only had 2 differences in my dryer from the one used in the video, so the video was helpful. The one difference was the connections to the front side of the dryer were on the power distribution circuit board located on the left of the dryer under a sheet metal cover. These were harder to disconnect with my fat thumbs. The bigger issue was with removing the front control panel. In the video there doesn't appear to be any clips holding the lower edge of the panel in place, there were 2 plastic clips and 4 plastic tabs. By watching another video I found the only way to remove the panel was to pry & pull and expect the clips to break. I pulled and pried and the clips broke and in the process cracked the front control housing. The wife was not to happy. Once the panels were removed it was easy to remove the belt from the idler and motor pulley. I didn't use the belt to lift the drum, it 's not heavy just a little awkward. To remove the idler bracket I had to use a larger Phillips driver, this screw was locked down tighter than the others, but it works as the pivot for the bracket so you don't want it to back out. Before putting it all back together I used a shopvac to clean out the lint, also removed and cleaned the duct piece between the lint trap and the blower. I also checked the drum support wheels to see that they turned freely. I suggest that if anyone wants to take on this repair to buy the complete idler assembly and new belt. I also purchased a new spring but it's not necessary. I would how ever buy the screw that mounts the idler assembly, in removing the screw you could damage the head and make reinstalling it next to impossible.Also wear gloves the sheet metal pieces are sharp.

I first researched on AppliancePartsPros.com the availability of parts. It looked like all common parts were in stock ready to ship. I also found that APP had several helpful videos to show how to take apart the dryer and replace the parts. Other research indicated the most common problem is the drum rollers, but after seeing the videos I determined that not only the rollers but also the tensioner pulley could be bad and the belt too. So I bought all of these parts because I did not want to take the dryer apart and not have every possible part. The tensioner pulley was the main part that was bad, the bearings were very loose and making noises. But as I checked the drum rollers, 3 of them were not turning as freely as a new one. So I am glad I had the extra parts. So for anyone out there with a similar issue I would recommend just replacing all the drum rollers, the tensioner pulley and the belt. After I finished my dryer runs like new. The videos said the job would be less than 2 hours, which normally it would be but with the dryer completely torn down, why not clean every possible area and part you can. So the job took closer to 4 hours with cleaning. One final note, from the factory I noticed that the plate the tensioner pulley is attached to is connected with a shoulder bolt to allow the plate to move freely with spring tension. This is all correct, but the plate to plate interface where the shoulder bolt is had a lot of wear marks and a lot of metal shavings under it. Also, the tensioner plate did not rotate very freely. I suspect that after years of service, that plate caused the wear and thus over time became less and less free to move. This probably eventually led to additional stresses on the bearings because more tension from the belt was being put on the pulley. After installing the new belt I noticed the old belt was quite stretched out. So, My final recommendation is to put a dab of high temperature grease on the tensioner plate so that it will have less metal to metal wearing.

I knew something in the dryer was failing because the dryer had been louder than usual and making some squealing noises for about 6 months. The dryer still worked though, so it was added to the "to worry about eventually" list. I learned a lot about electric dryers during this repair. They're pretty simple on the inside. You can find a ton of YouTube videos on how to repair the Samsung machines. Anyway, when the drum stopped turning I assumed it was a broken belt. On my particular Samsung, you can get access to the idler pulley and can visually inspect the belt through a panel on the back of the machine. When I opened it up, I saw the Idler Pulley was broken (the plastic wheel had shredded to pieces). I purchased a new idler pulley, drum belt, and idler tension spring. I wanted all of the possible parts so I could knock this out at once. I replaced the idler pulley (you just need a screwdriver) and used the old belt. It was a bit worn and I'm sure I'll need to replace it eventually, but I didn't feel like opening up the entire dryer right now. I probably didn't need the idler tension spring. It was cheap enough that I'll keep it in my workbench just in case. Anyway, I replaced the idler pulley with nothing but a screwdriver, cleaned out the dust that had accumulated in the dryer and it runs once again. I should mention this appliance is only about 6.5 years old and spent about half of its life kid free. It's a bit disappointing that it failed so early, BUT Appliance Parts Pros website made it super easy to get the parts and fix it and save a ton of money. This is a repair that many people can probably do all on their own. Watch a few YouTube videos on how to determine the issue and repair. The hardest part was getting the belt back on the pulley. I rated it a 2 because the belt is a bit of a pain to get back on the pulley and whatnot. Oh and be sure to put a towel or something on the exposed sheet metal when you go in through the back. It's sharp!

At first I thought it was the dryer belt. The drum would spin freely with no resistance. I went to Youtube to find a instructional video on how to change the belt. After a few short steps on had access to the dryer belt. To my dismay it wasn't the belt at all. I realized after doing a quick inspection that the idler wheel used to put tension on the belt had broken and was causing the issues. I found the matching idler wheel on AppliancepartsPros.com, ordered it and had it the next day......read AWESOME. I had everything up and running in about 30 minutes. While I had the unit torn apart I will add that I cleaned out excessive piles of lint. I strongly encourage you to do the same. Overall it was a super easy job. I'm sure I saved BIG $$$. Appliance repair can get EXPENSIVE if you let somebody else do it!

I researched the issue on You tube and found out it could be either the "belt broke switch" or the Moisture sensor. A friend who was an appliance mechanic advised "since you have to take it all apart anyways, its best to replace the belt, spring, and Idler wheel" I bought the 5 item for $52. I watched the video on the AppliancePartsPros for changing out the belt and I replace all items on the list. Took 1 1/2 hrs and was fixed on restart!! * Wear gloves, the sheet metal is very sharp edges!*