Frigidaire 5303281153 Rear Drum Bearing Kit OEM Part

I found a video on Youtube which described dryer drum squeaks as most likely caused by a worn rear drum bearing. I located the model number on the inside lip of the dryer door: Frigidaire Affinity LEQ6000ES2. I googled "frigidaire affinity dryer squeak". I got a link for my friends at AppliancePartsPros.com! I've used Appliance PartsPros 3 times before, so I figured I was in a "one-stop-solution" situation. I ordered a rear drum bearing kit as well as a dryer drum belt (after nearly 7 years of heavy use, I figured it would make sense to replace that as well. Everything arrived within 2 days of order, as usual, APP is very prompt. After receiving the parts, I watched a video here on Appliance PartsPros showing how to replace the rear drum bearing. I followed the procedure closely, as my dryer was very similar to the one shown in the video. It took about 2.5 hours to complete, including the extensive lint-cleaning I did while the dryer was disassembled. The only tricky parts: 1) reassembling the frame: it was tough to get the screw holes of the frame pieces to line up after being apart: I mean really tough. 2) tapping the threads for the new ball hitch was more difficult than I thought it would be. I had to use a power screwdriver to power two of them in as the manual screwdriver bit was just slipping out of the screw head when I tried to muscle them in by hand. I found that the gasket on the blower wheel assembly is getting pretty tattered, I'll be replacing that very soon. If your dryer is over 5 years old, you may want to consider getting that to start with.

The dryer was making a sound almost like a dump truck backing up [Squeal!.....Squeal!.....Squeal!]. After some research, I decided that it must be the rear bearing. I also ordered a new belt since my Kenmore dryer is about 10 years old and replacing the belt is easy once you take the drum out. I've read that at about 10 years, the belts go south. Getting the drum out wasn't hard, after removing the top and front panels (I left all the wires hooked up to the front panel) just unhook the belt from the motor and idler pulley and use it to lift upward. I had to jerk it up about 5 times before it would come out. Pay close attention to where the ball bearing is in relation to the plastic cup and the retainer that mounts to the back of the unit before you disassemble it. Putting the bearing cup and retainer in place is easy when the dryer is pulled completely away from the wall so that you can get to the rear of the unit and the inside of the back wall at the same time. The hardest part was attaching the new bearing stud ball piece (the part that looks like a little doorknob on a big flange). The screws are phillips head and are also self tapping. Getting these screws started without stripping the phillips drive was very challenging. It takes quite a bit of pressure to keep the drive engaged. I ended up placing the drum on the floor so that the bearing stud flange was pressed up against the rear drum wall. This way the bearing stud was pushing back as I pushed down to get the screws to bite. I also found that using a brand new bit that looked almost too big for the screw in a drill allowed me to push very hard while letting the drill to the turning. The screws then went right in. All of the above took about 30-45 minutes. I spent another 45 minutes or so cleaning out lint. Then I greased up everything with the included grease and reassembled the dryer. When I was putting the belt back on, the idler assembly and spring came completely off, but I found it was intuitive to put back (no fasteners, just hook the arm on the pivot and rehook the spring). I did a test run before I put it back under the cabinet. I heard some noises which turned out to be coins caught in the tumbler fins. I removed the top and was able to remove the offending fin without taking the front off. Found 50 cents! The dryer works good as new now. Very quiet and it dries faster now with all the lint gone.

Recommendations have fun and a bucket to prevent losing parts. First watch the videos, practice disassemble and reassemble the dryer drum. Make certain you have a good screw driver and spatula from kitchen (could not find my putty knife). Secondly, clean and inspect everything, make sure the motor bearing and belt pulleys are in good condition with little or no play. Third after you have confidently disassembled, vacuum cleaned, inspected all the worn parts, grease the motor and pulley, reassembled the dryer and discovered it still works. Forth step, You are now ready to order your parts to refurbish the dryer. My rear bearing was worn, belt was 3-4 yrs old from last replacement, the top felt and Teflon were getting compressed allowing the drum to wander, exhaust flex ducting and clamp had worn out with cracks and leaks. The parts arrived within a week, was wrapped and put under the Christmas Tree. 5th step, recruit the help of a young daughter to hold the parts in the rear of the dryer because my arms could not reach and my eyes could not see both sides of the dryer to replace the bearing, bearing cup and housing. Do Not Force the Parts. Do Not Tighten Screws Until Parts are Properly Seated and Assembled. Remember, the factory workers are only given couple of second to assemble the dryer, if it takes any more than a couple of seconds, Stop! Get a cup of coffee, relax and try again. Make sure the belt don't get caught and damage anything during disassembly or assembly. Inventory the parts before the repair work and compare the parts before final assembly. It only took 15 to 20 minutes to complete the entire rebuild, ...my youngest daughter helped clean the old felt off the front panel and applied the contact adhesive. She also helped with the bearing installation by holding the bearing components in the back. After spending less than $60 for felt, belt, bearing kit, new flex hose and clamp, ...the dryers works. One more suggestion, ...remove the fin-agitators in the drum. We found fuzz-balls, coins, ear ring, keys and other stuff that tumbled around making clanking sounds. Now we have a wonderful working quiet USA made dryer. Thank You and Happy New Years.

My 12 year old Frigidaire stack on top dryer had been beeping distress messages in some unintelligible code for about a year when it completely stopped producing heat. It also had a long standing issue with delicate fabrics and thin straps or drawstrings getting caught in the drum. After using this site to troubleshoot and viewing the useful how-to videos, I ordered and replaced the heating element, thermal limiter, and felt seals. Based on others' stories, I decided to also replace the rear drum bearing and belt while I had it disassembled, and due to the advanced age of my machine. I knew that the beeping was probably indicative of a bad control panel, but chose to replace the cheaper parts first in hopes of avoiding that expense. Despite my complete lack of repair experience, I was able to easily take apart the machine and replace all the parts using common household tools. It was obvious that the old parts I replaced were worn or damaged and in need of repair. Unfortunately, the dryer still did not produce heat when reassembled. But good news: I had found a sheet taped to the inside of my machine that described the diagnostic test procedure and error codes. Once I followed these instructions, I was able to identify the last problem as "error code 62", the control panel. I ordered the last part and was able to install it in about 20 minutes using the video on this site. Now my dryer works like new, without eating my clothes and without all the beeping! Total cost of this overhaul was about 1/3 the price of a new dryer. Happy customer!

The very easy diagnosis was motor seizure. Because the machine is about a decade old, I decided to renovate most of the guts. My DIY project included replacing the motor, blower, drum bearing, belt, and door hinge. The end result is a functional dryer with no left-over parts. Lack of parts and hardware challenged the effort. For example, the blower assembly did not have the slide capture for the motor. I had to use the old one which is showing its age. With the exception of the drum bearing kit, no parts come with any replacement hardware. I found during disassembly that a few screws were completely missing (lost to antiquity I suppose). So, multiple trips to the garage sifting through my hardware stash consumed time. Once assembled (motor and blower) the blower housing did not align with the blower fan. I had to shim the blower housing with two # 12 washers to make the new motor/blower assembly work. Of course that time-consuming process required trial-and-error and naturally longer screws. I ordered the door glide thinking that I was ordering the complete guide. Nope. You need to order two of them. So replacing the glide will be for another time. Installing the other parts was mostly intuitive. My suggestions for an extensive appliance repair job are as follows. Be sure you read the APP description for every part you are ordering. Understand that what's NOT specifically listed is probably NOT included -even critical items not firmly attached to the assembly you're ordering (like hardware, clips, clamps, etc). Accumulate an assortment of #8 and #12 sheet metal screws (1/2 inch to 3/4 inch long) before starting any appliance repair project. Use a small fishing lure box to keep the screws sorted for re installation. The actual DIY project is relatively easy, but missing screws and ill-fitting parts add challenge. Take it slow. Do not consider it an evening project unless you enjoy hands-on frustration just before going to bed.