Whirlpool WPW10006384 Washer Drive Belt OEM Part

This was my first attempt, ever, to repair a washing machine. After some internet research on the problems, I was able to determine that the shaft seal on the gearcase probably was leaking water into the gearcase with each use. No water was ever found on the floor, but when I turned the washer over to inspect the gearcase, I found a black, oily residue on the outside of it along with the same residue on the pulleys, the belt and the motor. I ordered a new gearcase, shift actuator, splutch kit and belt on-line with a total cost of right at $250 (much less expensive than local appliance repair facilities and certainly less than a replacement washer). My main concern was with the removal of the tub seal. Fortunately, on this model, no special tools are required. Once the original gear case was removed, I was able to push the seal out with thumb pressure. The new gear case came with the seal already on the shaft. The seal seats properly when the gear case mounting screws are installed. Because the gearcase is somewhat heavy and is awkward to pull once the four mounting bolts are removed, I recommend removing the motor and all pieces attached to the gear case before removing it from the washer. All of the parts can be reinstalled once the gear case is in place and secured to the washer. Of course, clean the oily residue off of everything before reassembling. Also, the Sears replacement parts website has the best video for replacing the gearcase on this particular washer. After a couple of weeks, and approximately 15 washer uses, everything is working perfectly. One other suggestion: The tub in which clothes sit when they are washed should be inspected after it is removed. I found over half of the holes around the outside wall to be clogged. Take the time to clean the residue with a stiff brush and some dishwashing detergent. The new parts and those unclogged holes will make the washer do what it is supposed to do: get your clothes clean efficiently.

Symptoms: Machine was spinning and spitting a dark colored oil in a circular pattern on the floor under the machine. No strange noises, just messy. Researched issue, Gear-case bad, seal deteriorated and not preventing water from entering gear-case. The additional cam, belt etc I had replaced due to the amount of oil and transmission residue attached to them. Ordered parts, EVERYTHING parts-wise that is needed is included in gear-case package. **NOTE: You WILL need to get a whirlpool spanner wrench kit to complete this job.It's a cheap kit $9-14 or so. additionally You will need several different metric socket sizes (10, 13 etc) and both flat and Phillips-head screwdrivers. I had to use a Dremmel tool and cutter to remove the washer drive hub kit nut and plate from the gear-case spindle. Spray air worked very well in removing dust and debris from the connections of under-side components....have plenty of patience. The fix: Firstly, researched online tutorials from this website and others (YouTube) on specifics (There are plenty!). Unplugged machine. Removed washer top cover, washer spin cap, washer screw and wash-plate. Secondly removed washer drive hub kit (2 x nuts + plate) which was an endeavor all on it's own as all of the parts were severely corroded and oxidized. My second friction point was that the inner wash spin basket was froze to the Gear-case spindle and would not budge as there was much wash residue and oxidation on the gear-case spindle. An overpriced tool can be bought to remove the basket if yours does not pull out freely. I personally used a simple car jack (small bottle jack would work fine as well) and a 20' wooden 2x4 (several home-made online tutorials available). After inner spin basket was removed, I had taped the lid and washer top down and laid the machine on it's back. Next, removed all components from the underside of the gear-case, taking note of where everything was attached; Removed gear-case; Removed stuck old washer tub seal; cleaned orifice and replaced gear-case. Re-attached all previous items. Placed washer back together. All worked perfectly. Good luck!

I started out by replacing the rods. You can tell if they need replacing if the tub is not stiff to movements. Be mindful of what nuts or screws to take off to slide the cover back. It varies from machine to machine. That did not fix the problem. But I definitely needed to replace those rods. I then replaced the spindle and the washer that holds the tub down. I had read that the washer can cause problems. Mine probably needed replacing. I would get more problems with heavier loads. I then replaced the clutch kit. I then saw some major improvements but still had some shaking. The last thing that I could replace was the belt. Once I did that I ran a full load, and I did not have any violent shaking. But when I did that, I was very careful to balance out the clothes in the tub. It is also very important that you take a level and balance the washer. The old belt did not look bad but where it lay there were black streaks on the wheel and the pulley. I took some alcohol and some paper towels. I rubbed until no stains came off onto the paper towels. What I should have done was to take a small screwdriver, wrapped a paper towel around it, and put it into the grooves on the pulley. I would be careful what solvents you use. You don't want to strip the motor of its lubrication or dissolve some plastic parts. Perhaps some soap had gotten on the pulleys and belt. I noticed that the washer seemed to run "smoother" now. Could it have been slipping and that cause the violent shaking? It seems that I really did need a new belt even though inspecting it I could see nothing wrong. It did not appear stretched. But parts of it had rubbed off onto the pulleys. I would up doing a complete rebuild. Any other parts would cost $100-$300 and it would not be worth repairing.

New gearcase. Originally thought replacing bearing would solve the noise but after an online chat with AplliancePartsPro, they researched bearing replacement and advised my model did not have the capability of the bearing replacement of other Cabrio models and recommended the gearcase. Replacement was not too difficult--albeit time consuming. Lid removal is NOT what is shown for most washers (putty knife to front clips), you remove rear vertical clips and pull the lid forward. I did not have the specified spanner wrench but careful tapping (really bashing) of the hub nut with short drift and hammer and removal of 6 years of muck allowed removal of gear case. Note it still took some force with a wood block to tap out from the tub. Be careful as the case is a tight fit and will contact items under the tub thus takes some maneuvering to drop free. New gearcase--back to quiet, original operation!

There was a horrible screeching noise coming from the washer, and upon inspection I found that the retaining nut that attaches the cam to the machine was either improperly tightened to begin with or had worked itself loose causing the cam to wobble and the belt to work down the cam. The cam gear teeth became worn and the belt worked itself half off the cam and cut a hole in the protective plastic screen containing the whole ensemble. I purchased the belt, shield and cam kit. The parts are remarkably well designed compared to the original parts. The whole process took about 7 minutes. Works like new, if not better. Ensure the belt is properly aligned, and nut is tight. The cam should have little to no wobble when complete. Thanks AppliancepartsPROS.com!