Alex for Model Number DLEX7177SM Hi, folks. Replacing what I thought was a burnt out heater (5301EL1001A) on my dryer due to no heat. All thermistors and thermostats are to spec) tested everything else and all is fine, but measured the resistance between the heater terminals and it comes to 20/20/40 Ohm instead of the spec sheet calling for 10/10/20 Ohm on one page and 18-22/18-22/9-11 Ohm on the other page of the same document (thanks, LG!). Problem is - my brand new part measures 20/20/40 Ohm. I still installed it to test it out, but no luck. What gives? Thanks! PS: going crazy here - tested the centrifugal switch on the motor, all thermistors, all thermostats, rung the circuits all the way through, verified relays closing on the main PCB. The darn thing still won't fire up the heater.
Answer Alex, as long as the meter has been verified as being good in calibration, the heater would be outside of tolerance. In regards to the no heat, the excessive resistance should not stop it from heating for testing purposes. It would be recommended that the dryer power cord terminal block is tested for 240VAC to ensure proper voltage is reaching the dryer. If there is, the next step would be to test the main control heater relays from the incoming wire to the outgoing wire while the dryer is operating. If the either relay shows 240VAC when the dryer is on normal heat, the relay has failed and the main control would need to be replaced. If the voltage reads 0VAC on both, the main control is good and the failure would either be a broken wire or a failed centrifugal switch. Read More... Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Monday, January 3, 2022