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Customer Questions and Answers for Inf Switch Kit ( Dual ) by Whirlpool

4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12026046
Manufacturer Part Number: 12002125

The Infinite Switch Kit (Dual) is an OEM part for Whirlpool ranges and cooktops. This kit includes the dual infinite switch, which allows for the independent control of two heating elements on the same burner. It provides precise control over the temperature settings for cooking surfaces, ensuring optimal performance.

Causes of a bad infinite switch can include wear and tear from frequent use, electrical surges, or exposure to moisture and spills. These issues can affect the switch's ability to regulate the burner temperature effectively.

Symptoms of a bad infinite switch include:

  • One or both burners not heating up or heating inconsistently
  • Burners staying at a fixed heat level regardless of the setting
  • Difficulty in adjusting the burner temperature
  • The switch feeling loose, stuck, or unresponsive

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Inf Switch Kit ( Dual ) (Part Number: OEM12026046)

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Jdcowboy for Model Number JES9800AAB

I installed a new infinite switch for the left dual burner. Part number 12002125. I turned on the left dual burner and it came on as expected except the inner burner was not working or at least not heating fully. Then with the left dual burner still on high, I turned on the right dual burner. There was a huge arc inside the stove, it ended up throwing not only the breaker for the oven, but the main breaker for the entire house. Turns out the switch blew so bad that it burned a few of the connectors. My questions, was this just coincidence that it blew when I put the new switch in,(I am guessing not)? I hooked up the switch according to how the right one was hooked up. It has a few color differences in the wires, instead of tan it has a blue wire, and the single red wire looks to be orange. The wiring schematic talks about a compound connection and a piggyback connection, but does not mention how to recognize the difference. Can you tell me how I can tell what type of connection I have so I can separate the red wires if necessary? This would not make sense to me as they were together on the old switch that looks exactly the same. Old switch number is 7403P831-60. Can you please help me I dont want to fry another switch!

Answer

JDCowboy, It does not appear that there would be any difference in the connection of the switch. Here is how it should be wired. Double black wire to P1 with a Jumper wire between the P1 to S1. Single red wire that goes to the element on terminal 2, double red wire to P2, single black wire that goes to the indicator to S2. The tan will be on number 4 and the Orange to 4a. If you have wired this way then the switch is wired properly. If wired incorrectly it could have caused failure of the switch and if it is wired properly both inner and outer element should come on full and if not then the element would be faulty.

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Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com   |   Tuesday, June 13, 2017

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