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Customer Questions and Answers for Cooktop Dual Infinite Switch Kit by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12026046
Manufacturer Part Number: 12002125

If your dual burner only works on high or won't heat at all, this dual infinite switch kit restores full temperature control. Moderate difficulty install.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Cooktop Dual Infinite Switch Kit (Part Number: OEM12026046)

1 Answer

Terry, the wire on terminal 2 (old switch) will connect to P1 along with one end of the black jumper lead. The other end of the jumper lead will connect to S1. The wire on terminal 3 (old switch) will connect to 4. The wire on terminal 4 (old switch) will connect to 4a, the wire on terminal 5 (old switch) will connect to S2. The wire on L2 (old switch) will connect to P2.

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Jessica for Model Number cce3531w

I was advised of the replacement infinite switches for dual burners on cooktop model CCE3531 would be part 12002125. I received the order, but the switches do not match the parts I am replacing. The actual part numbers of the parts to be replaced are 7403P405 and 7403P406. Can you please advise me if 12002125 is a replacement part for 7403P405 and 7403P406? If so, can you provide instructions on converting the wiring from the old parts 7403P405 and 7403P406 to the new replacement part 12002125?

1 Answer

Hello Jessica, I'm sorry but the part numbers you provided must be the vendor number as they do not come up as valid part numbers. The unit you refer to, CCE3531W, uses two W11088181 and two 12002125. The second part number I have provided is for the dual elements and the first part number is for the single elements. Since the part numbers have crossed, they may not look the same but operate as the originals were designed.

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Nigel for Model Number CCE3531W Jenn-Air cooktop

Replacing old Dual burner switch with new (74007715 replacing with 12002125). Old Switch connections - double red - #5, Double black - #2, single red (indicator) - #1, Blue - #3, Purple - #4 (Purple & (Blue go to outer ring only). Two jumpers - thicker gauge has one smaller female fitting that is too small for any of the terminals. Other jumper has 90 degree female fittings but narrower gauge. Same size fittings as terminals on the switch. Plastic cover on double black is making jumper installation very difficult - do I cut it off?

1 Answer

Nigel, the double black wire will go to terminal P1, the double red to P2, the single red will go to terminal S2, blue will go to terminal 4, purple will go to terminal 4a. It is not recommended that anything is cut. The jumper may need to be installed prior to the double black connector and it will go from the second P1 terminal to the S1 terminal.

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1 Answer

Cody, You would not want to switch wiring on the parts and the issue will more likely be a burnt out element.

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1 Answer

Bill, the double black wire will go to terminal P1, the jumper wire in the kit will go from P1 to S1, the single black wire will go to terminal S2, the orange wire will go to terminal 4a, the tan wire will go to terminal 4, the double red wire will go to terminal P2, and the blue/violet wire will go to terminal 2.

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1 Answer

Hello Superb, unfortunately, the infinite switch (W11120795) needed for your model has been modified internally and will now not work correctly on JennAir downdraft cooktops due to the model's wiring design. There is no substitute switch that will work.

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1 Answer

GPhomerepair, You will want to use the thicker of the 2 wires as it is a higher gauge wire.

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Larry for Model Number JES9800AAB

JennAir JES9800AAB. Right front dual burner. Removed old infinite switch (7403P406-60) and installed new switch (12002125). Wired as follows. Installed jumper wire from P1 to S1 on new switch Single red wire on #4 (old switch) to #2 on new switch Dual red wire on #5 (old switch) to P2 on new switch Single black wire on #1 (old switch) to S2 on new switch Dual black wire on #2 (old switch) to P1 on new switch Brown/tan wire on #3 (old switch) to #4 on new switch Yellow wire on #6 (old switch) to 4A on new switch PROBLEM after wiring to new switch. Burner is either off or on high. No in between. What did I do wrong.?

1 Answer

Larry, based on the information provided, it sounds like the wiring may have been changed around on your unit. To match the manufacturer's wiring diagram, it would be recommended that the wiring is inspected to ensure that the single red wire is going to the L2 terminal on the element (terminal on the thermal limiter that is farthest from the center of the element). From there, the element should have the tan wire going to the middle terminal while the yellow wire goes to the outer terminal (L2 terminal, inner coil terminal, and outer coil terminal will be located on the same side of the thermal limiter as each other). If these wires do not match up, it would be easiest to change them to the correct position for future repairs. Otherwise, the wires at the element would need to be identified as to which one is placed where so that the switch could be wired accordingly. The wire located at the element's L2 terminal would go to position 2 of the switch, the middle terminal would go to position 4, and the outer terminal would go to position 4a.

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1 Answer

Ed, The L1 would be P1 on the new switch, the L2 would be P2, the S1 is for the indicator, the 4 would be the inner element, the 4A would be the outer element and the 2 would be the L2 out.

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